10 Poison Prevention Week Tips for your Cat

March 15-21 is National Poison Prevention Week. While cats are more likely to eat non-toxic items, such as ribbons and ear plugs (that are still a medical problem), there are still some cats that will eat other items that can be a problem due to a toxicity. To help prevent a poisoning incident, consider the following tips:

• If your cat takes medication regularly, keep the bottles hidden in a cupboard rather than out

  

  Pills are fun to catch, "kill" and eat.

  where the medication is accessible. If you need to have the medication out where you can see it to help remind you to give it, use a small weekly pill container, so that only a few pills are out and accessible, and make sure that the weekly pill holder is in an area that the cat cannot access. Keep the rest of the prescription behind closed doors.
• Be especially careful to keep chewable medications and vitamins out of reach (for humans or pets).
• Store human medications in a separate location from human medications to avoid confusing who gets which pill. Human prescription medications are the number one reason people call the Animal Poison Control Center, and over the counter human medications are the third most common reason. We have had phone calls from clients who have accidentally taken their pets' medication and calls from people who have accidentally given their own medication to their cat! If you drop a human medication on the floor, make sure to pick it up, immediately. Better yet, take your human medications over a counter or plate so that the medication never falls on the floor. We have had a few patients who have swooped in and stolen a toxic pill from the floor as their owner was reaching down to pick it up.
• Keep your purse, backpack or laptop bag out of reach of your cat. Many people carry

  

  Cats LOVE to get into bags, which can get them into trouble.

  medications, coins, batteries, various snacks, etc. in bags they carry around with them daily. If a pet can get into the bag, they have access to a wide array of things they should not eat! Additionally, we have had people who take their bags with them into homes with fleas bring fleas home to their own house and pets afterwards!
• Don't leave people food out where cats  can eat it! Many human foods are safe, but a number of foods that we can eat can be toxic to your cat. Chocolate is a toxin many people know of,

  

  Cats sometimes have strange ideas about what foods they want to eat

  however foods from the onion family, such as garlic, leeks, and scallions are also a concern for cat. Just like people can have adverse effects from drinking too much alcohol, cats can also suffer from intoxication and even coma and death from an alcoholic overdose.
• Keep flower arrangements and indoor plants out of reach of your cat. Some flowers are more toxic than others, and the beautiful members of the lily family are the most toxic of all. Even a small amount of pollen that a cat grooms off of its coat may be enough to cause kidney failure.
• If your cat goes outside, be sure to check with your neighbors to see if they use rodenticides. Additionally, find out if they use any insecticide sprays on their lawn, and on what schedule, so that you can make sure to keep your cat confined after a treatment has been applied. Also make sure to keep dog and cat parasite preventives separate - a number of products that are safe for dogs are toxic to cats. Only 11% of the 180,000 calls per year to the ASPCA Poison Control Center involve insecticides (that's about 20,000 cases of insecticide poisoning), but more than half of those cases involve cats. Many fertilizers may contain blood or bone meal or poultry manure, which can all be a cause for concern for your pets, as well.
• Keep your pet emergency phone numbers handy! Even better, take a minute right now and program the phone number of Exclusively Cats (248-666-5287), the ASPCA Poison Control Center (888-426-4435) and your favorite animal emergency hospital into your phone for easy access, if they are not there, already.
• Download the ASPCA Animal Poison Control's free app.

Want to know if the rumor you heard about a poisonous substance for pets is true? Check out the Animal Poison Control Center's "Okay or No Way!" list.

Here is some further information about poison prevention in cats:
Summer safety tips
Gardening with Cats
Lily Toxicity
Christmas Safety Tips

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disaster: Part 4: Preparing a Disaster Kit and a First Aid Kit for your Pet

Planning a disaster preparedness kit for your pet

• One to two-week supply of food. Store it in a water-tight, rodent-proof container and rotate it every three months to keep it fresh. If you use canned food, include a spare can opener and a spoon.
• One to two-week supply of fresh water. If officials declare your household water unfit to drink, it’s also unsafe for your pets. Follow American Red Cross guidelines for storing emergency water for your family and your pets.
• Medication. If your animal takes medication, a replacement supply may not be easily available following a disaster. Make sure to include dosing instructions and refill information for your pharmacy or veterinary hospital
• Copies of vaccination records and/or medical records in a waterproof sleeve (a rabies certificate is extremely important), and information about any special needs for your pet
• Photographs of you with your pets to prove ownership
• Photographs of your pets in case you need to make "lost pet" fliers
• Emergency Contact list  (Veternarian, Emergency Vet, local pet-friendly hotels, and a poison-control center or hotline such as the ASPCA poison-control center, which can be reached at 1-800-426-4435). It is a good idea to include directions to these places as well.
• Pet first aid kit and book
• Temporary ID tags. If you've evacuated, use this to record your temporary contact information and/or the phone number of an unaffected friend or relative.
• One secure carrier for each pet. Carriers should be large enough to allow your pet to stand comfortably, turn around, and lie down. Your pet may need to remain in the carrier for several hours at a time. If you have multiple animals to transport, you can use an EvacSak, which is
  
  easy to store and use for transport, but if your pet needs to be contained for several hours, a carrier is a better choice. In an emergency where time is of the essence, a pillowcase will do for short periods of management, if nothing else will suffice.
• Favorite toy, treats, beds, blankets - small creature comforts to help de-stress your pet
• Small litterbox, litter scoop and litter
• Paper towels, pee pads, pet cleaner
• Garbage bags
• Roll of tape and permanent marker
• Flashlight with spare batteries
• Radio and spare batteries

What should be in your pet's First Aid Kit? Most of the items in a pet first aid kit can also be found in First Aid kits geared towards humans. It is a good idea to bring along a First Aid kit if you are traveling with your pet. Assemble the following in a zippered tote bag or plastic box. A fishing tackle box might do nicely!

Activated charcoal

Adhesive tape - do not use Band-Aids on pets! 1/2 - 1" tape is a good size for cats

Anti-diarrheal medication

Antibiotic ointment for wounds (neomycin, polymixin B, bacitracin)

Antibiotic ointment for eyes

Baby Wipes

Bandage scissors

Bandage tape

Betadine (povidone-iodine)

Blanket - foil emergency blanket

Chlorhexidine scrub and solution

Clippers for grooming - battery operated

Corn syrup (Karo) for hypoglycemia

Cotton balls and/or swabs

Cotton bandage rolls

Dawn dish soap

Ear cleaning solution

Elastic bandage rolls (such as VetWrap or Coflex) For cats, we are fond of 1.5". Do not wrap this too tight; preferably, loosen it from the roll, then wrap with it, just tight enough to stay on.

Eye rinse - sterile (not contact lens solution)

Flea and tick prevention medication

Gauze pads and rolls (2")

Hydrogen peroxide 3%

Ice pack

Large tongue depressors or ice cream sticks (can be used as splints)

Isopropyl Alcohol or alcohol wipes

Latex or nitrile gloves

Measuring spoons

Muzzle - this may be necessary if your pet becomes injured and is in extreme pain, but do not use it if your pet is vomiting, choking, coughing or otherwise having difficulty breathing

Medication - 2 week supply

Nail clippers

Needle-nosed pliers

Non-absorbent wound pads, Telfa or other

Pedialyte

Penlight

Saline solution for rinsing wounds

Sterile lubricant/petroleum jelly

Styptic powder

Small syringes and eye-droppers

Thermometer (digital) - your cat's rectal temperature should be between 99.9-102.5

Tourniquet

Towel and washcloth

Tweezers

You can also purchase pre-assembled Pet First Aid Kits at many Pet Stores and online retailers.

Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment. Please consult with a medical professional before using any home remedies, or in any case where poisoning is suspected. Do not induce vomiting in a suspected poisoning case unless instructed to do so by your veterinarian or the Pet Poison Helpline - in some cases, vomiting can cause additional trauma and complications.

There are many pet first aid books that you can purchase for reference, as well. This one is produced by the Red Cross.

  Cat First Aid book from the Red Cross

Disaster/First aid recommendations for small animals, reptiles, horses and livestock

Four things you can do to de-stress pet travel

January 2nd is National Pet Travel Safety Day!

Preparation. Most cats hate the carrier and get stressed when they travel - often because the only time they get in the carrier is when they go to the vet! The trick to a stress-free trip in the car for your cat is positive association. With your cat safely it its carrier, take many short, treat-filled trips around the block. If a car ride equals fun and treats, your pet will be less stressed when it's time to take travel seriously. In addition, leaving the carrier out long-term with bedding in it, or feeding your cat in the carrier will help your cat feel less stressed when it comes time to get into the carrier for travel.

For long trips, pack a "cat bag" full of supplies, including food and water, portable bowls, litter box, waste bags, cleaning supplies, a bed or towel, any medications, toys, and a pet first aid kit like this one suggested by the Red Cross.

Feed your pet a couple of hours prior to departure rather than right before. This can prevent them from getting sick while traveling. Take extra food and water and pack it so that it is accessible - you never know when you may get stuck in traffic, miss your connecting flight or otherwise be delayed.

If your trip is over the course of several days, make sure your cat will be welcome everywhere you plan to stop. Many hotels and motels allow pets, but not all. A good resource for trip planning is http://www.petswelcome.com/

Prevent your cat from taking over your travel plans by securing him in a cat carrier.

Restraint. Make sure your pet is properly restrained whenever you travel by car. AAA reports that every year, 30,000 car accidents are caused due to unrestrained pets. The simplest and safest method is a well-ventilated carrier of the appropriate size which is securely fastened inside the car. It is not safe to let your pet sit on your lap or be unrestrained in your vehicle. It seems that the favorite hiding place for a cat in a car is right under the brake pedal. In addition, if you open the door, the cat may leap out and take off running into traffic, instead of waiting for you to pick him up. If you need to stop suddenly while driving, cat that is not in a carrier can become a projectile and could suffer severe injuries.

Remember, when traveling with your cat, never to leave him unattended in a parked car, even with the windows cracked. Even on a mild day, it doesn’t take long for the temperature inside a parked car to become dangerously hot or cold.

The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends stopping about every 2-3 hours to allow your pet to stretch her legs, if possible.

Identification. Whenever you travel with your pet, make sure your cat has current identification, ideally a highly visible collar and ID tag in addition to a permanent form of identification such as a microchip, in case the collar becomes separated from your pet.

Talk to your vet. Let your cat’s veterinarian know about your upcoming trip and see what he or she has to say. Since your veterinarian is aware of your cat’s health and behavior, make sure they feel that it’s okay for your pet to travel with you. You don’t want to expose your cat to unnecessary risks, so make sure his shots are current before traveling. If your cat becomes extremely stressed during travel and leaving him at home is not an option, this would also be a good time to discuss whether or not your veterinarian feels it would be appropriate for your cat to receive a mild tranquilizer. Be sure to bring a health certificate and proof of vaccination with you — you may need both when traveling through some states. If you are planning to fly with your pet, make sure to check with your airline for their health certificate requirements. Most airlines want a certificate dated within 10 days of travel, so even if your cat has had her annual checkup, she may need one just before you leave. If you are traveling internationally, especially for travel to islands, there may be medical treatment, quarantine, or testing requirements up to 12 months prior to travel! It is also a good idea to do some homework and locate the name and phone number for an emergency veterinarian at your destination.

 Pet Travel Check List:

• Properly-sized crate or harness
• Food
• Water
• Toys
• Bedding
• Collar 
• Litter box  
• Pet first aid kit 
• Name and phone number of your current vet and a vet in your destination