There are two major reasons people seek help with their
cats' behavior. The first is inappropriate elimination. The second is
aggression or fighting.
There are several reasons that cats may fight -
1) territoriality
2) play
3) stress or anxiety
1) Territoriality
While cats do not live in packs, they do form social bonds
in wild colonies. However, in the wild, cats have much larger territories than
they do in our homes. Various studies have been performed in England and the
US, tracking feral cats and indoor/outdoor pets. These studies have found that
cats have a range of up to 2 square miles in the suburban U.S. and as large as
8.5 square miles in rural farmland in England.
Cats with indoor habitat tend to roam less than feral cats, but still cover a lot of ground.
These studies have shown that cats live more closely
together in urban areas where they have more resources available - more sources
of food, water, litter areas and "prime" resting spots. We also know
that cats establish small territories within a room, and "time share"
resources. Cats in a household can be predictably located in certain areas of
the home at certain times of day, just like outdoor cats will patrol certain
parts of their territory on a predictable schedule. Because of this, cats are
very tied to predictability of their environment, and changes to the environment
(a.k.a. territory) can cause outbreaks of aggression. Similarly, changes to
resource availability - loss of perches, change in feeding location or feeding
schedule, changes in the number of people or cats in the home, elimination or
relocating of litterboxes - can cause dominance struggles as well, as cats
re-negotiate their territories and schedules.
Territorial aggression issues tend to develop when a new cat
is introduced into the home without giving the existing cats a chance to
acclimate to the idea. It can also be related to the loss of a cat, either
because the cat has moved out of the house, has been hospitalized at the
veterinary office, or because the cat is no longer living - this can open up a
valued resource in the home, causing cats to fight. It may also develop over
time as a confident cat starts to guard resources and threaten other cats over
these resources, escalating over time (the dominant cat becoming more
aggressive and the victimized cat becoming more anxious or fearful). This
situation may progress beyond growling and hissing to inappropriate elimination
issues (this can be due to due to litterbox guarding by the aggressive cat,
territorial marking on the part of either cat, or due to extreme fearfulness on
the part of the victim).
2) Play aggression
Cats under two years of age are still honing their hunting
skills. It is not unusual for these cats to dash
Play fighting is usually silent, while real fighting is very vocal
madly around the house with
the "kitty crazies" as often as several times a day! They pounce and
attack anything that moves interestingly - from the dog's tail to your ankle
(especially when you're under sleeping under a blanket at 2am!) and this is considered normal and natural behavior at this age. This type of aggression includes all sorts of predatory behaviors that will aid cats in hunting when they are older - pouncing, biting, climbing, stalking, chasing, attacking, running, ambushing, leaping, batting and swatting. This also
means that your 14 year old cat may get his fur ruffled when your new kitten
wants to pounce his tail 26 times a minute. Most of the time, the wary can
avoid attacks from a kitten - watch for a lashing tail, the
"butt-wiggle" as they prepare to pounce, a sudden dilation of pupils. Kittens learn "bite inhibition" through play with siblings, and those kittens that were not raised with a litter or who were removed from their mother and siblings at an early age, may be more aggressive than kittens who stayed with other kittens of their age until they were 8 weeks of age. Kittens that spend long hours in a house by themselves, or kittens that are encouraged to view human body parts (hands, arms and legs) as acceptable toys may display more intensely aggressive play behaviors than cats in a multi-cat household.
3)Stress or anxiety
Many times, cats will become aggressive when they are
uncomfortable with a situation. Perhaps your
cat is frustrated that he can't
hunt the chipmunk that teases him through the window, or go out and
Stress and frustration can cause cats to act aggressively
explain to
the neighbor's cat that the back yard is HIS territory, not hers. Perhaps you
have a pregnant female who becomes anxious when you handle her kittens. Perhaps
your elderly cat becomes stressed when you pet him over his arthritic hips. All
of these scenarios are potential causes of stress or anxiety in a cat - in
addition to the stress of living in a multi-cat household, establishing time
shares and territory in an indoor range, sharing litterboxes and feeding
stations.
Now that you know some of the reasons that cats may fight, stay tuned to discover what you can do about it!
Nutrition
is based on life stages and overall health. You would not feed the same thing
to a kitten that you would feed to a 6 year old cat or a 14 year old cat, and
you would not feed the same thing to a healthy cat that you would feed to a
diabetic cat, or a cat with kidney disease.
Pet nutrition has become a very hot topic in the last several years, with good reason. There have been a great number of recalls, and a number of revolutions in the way we think about feeding pets (Canned food vs. dry food, raw food vs. traditional diets, carbohydrates vs. proteins...). If you asked 7 different pet owners or veterinarians what food you should feed your pet, you would probably get 7 different answers.
In
the wild, a cat would eat a variety of prey animals – primarily mice and other
rodents, insects, birds and frogs (rarely fish!). The average mouse is about
75% water, and provides about 3-5% carbohydrates. No matter what your cat eats,
it should not eat a food that contains more than 10% carbohydrates.
Let’s
say we are talking about a normal, 5 year old, healthy cat. Because most foods have the statement “formulated to meet the nutritional levels
established by AAFCO Cat Food nutrient profiles for all life stages” on the
label – most would be an appropriate option for basic nutrition. Your
cat will not suffer any nutrient deficiencies while eating a food with this label.
Let's compare two brands of food, just to see how complex it can be to determine which is better. A can of Instinct turkey flavored food costs about $1.25 per 3oz can. Fancy Feast turkey and giblets costs about $0.60 per 3 oz can. Common sense would suggest that if a food costs more, it must be higher quality. Let's take a closer look.
Since
canned food is mostly water, meat also contains a large amount of water, and the amount of water may very between canned foods, you have to do a little math to figure out what
nutrients the actual solid part of the food contains. This also allows you to compare between canned foods, or compare a
wet food to a dry food.If you take a few minutes to
calculate the dry matter carbohydrate content of the food, you will see that
the Instinct food has 18% carbohydrates on a dry matter basis (DMB)!! That’s pretty high
for a cat. Fancy Feast has a carbohydrate content of 6.8%. Instinct is also 10% lower in protein and 8% higher in fat. It also has about
twice the calories of the Fancy Feast. A cat with weight issues might not want to eat this food, no matter how much kelp it has in it…and speaking of kelp, why would
your cat need kelp in his diet? Kelp may have some great nutritional benefits on a chemical level, but cats are descended from desert animals - their digestive tract is not designed to digest it.
Cat
digestive tracts are much simpler than a human’s or a dog’s. The way they
digest foods takes a lot of shortcuts – skipping important steps that relate to
carbohydrates, vegetables, fruits – things that are not part of their natural
diet. Even though apples, blueberries, pumpkins and flax have great nutritional
benefits – if they are in whole-food form, their nutritional benefits may stay
locked away from use if eaten by a cat. If given in supplement form (raw
vitamins, omega fatty acids, etc.), they are likely of much more use.
In
fact, while artichokes, pumpkin and cranberries sound yummy to us, cats are
obligate carnivores – that means that they HAVE to eat meat. Meat, meat and
(almost) only meat! In reality, most cats would get vegetables/grains/fruits
only if they ate the pre-digested contents of their prey’s stomach. A cat could
NEVER be a vegetarian and be healthy. They get taurine from muscle meat – it is
an amino acid that dogs and people can make in their bodies. Cats can’t, so
they need it in their food, or they suffer damage to their hearts and eyes.
Dogs might raid a trash can and eat your leftovers. If a cat was REALLY REALLY
hungry, he might, but he’s not looking for the carrots or the chocolate cake –
he is looking for that turkey gristle, or the fish bones.
Cats
rarely will choose to eat vegetables. They also tend to hate citrus. But even
if they eat it, it doesn’t mean they can digest it. Most cats will drink milk
or eat other dairy products, but the majority of cats are also lactose
intolerant. It means they can’t digest milk proteins. Cats will also eat ear
plugs, shoelaces, plastic bags, hair bands, rubber bands, ribbon…Just because
they eat it, doesn’t mean they can digest it! So, just because a cat is eating
kelp and broccoli and loving it doesn’t mean that its body can break down the
food and use it for nutrition.
Similarly,
Instinct contains tomatoes, which are members of the Solanaceae family of plants which
includes
the Deadly Nightshade. Tomatoes contain a bitter, poisonous alkaloid called
glycoalkaloid solanine that can cause violent lower gastrointestinal symptoms.
Generally cats aren't attracted to tomatoes, but there have been reports of a
single cherry tomato causing a near-fatal reaction. Green tomatoes and the
leaves and stems are all toxic. This toxin is destroyed by cooking, so I would
have to assume that the tomato in the Instinct diet is cooked, or in such small
quantities that it is non-toxic, but why even put a toxic veggie into the food?
This is one reason that it is a good idea to use foods whose companies have
done feeding trials – they can tell you in detail how the food affects a cat –
what its urine concentration or pH is, blood levels of vitamins (so you know
they are really getting them), etc.
The
ingredients are listed on the label in the order of greatest content by weight to least
content. Allowing for the fact that the order of ingredients does not tell us
quantity, we do know that Instinct says that it is 95% duck and turkey liver.
We don't know whether Fancy Feast is 95% turkey and liver or not, but we do
know that they are the two ingredients that make up most of the food by weight. The first
5 ingredients on the Fancy Feast are meat-related products. Only the first two
on the Instinct label are meat related. Then comes water and then flax (which a
cat may or may not be able to digest). Both have all the necessary vitamins and
minerals. Instinct has clay in it? The Montmorrilonite clay may have benefits for people, but I
highly doubt that any research has been done on cats and the benefits of
ingesting clay. What’s good for people is not necessarily good for cats. Many people love
to eat garlic and chocolate (not at the same time, of course!). But both garlic
and chocolate are toxic to cats. Besides, a cat likely gets plenty of clay
in his diet from cleaning his paws after using the litterbox.
Don't
believe what you read about "meat by-products" either. Most Internet
sites will have you believe that "meat by-products" are beaks and
toenails, roadkill, euthanized shelter animals and intestinal contents, but in reality they are organ
meats: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, liver, blood, bone, and cleaned stomach
and intestines. The FDA has tested multiple brands of pet foods and has found no sign of dog or cat DNA in any of them.
Most of the ingredients of this diet are grains and vegetables, not meat
So,
long story short – if we were going to pick one of these two foods as the best
food to feed a young, healthy cat, we would pick the Fancy Feast! It has a
better protein/carb/fat ratio, more water, fewer questionably digestible
ingredients (which means potentially more nutrient bioavailability). We are not suggesting that Fancy Feast is the best food on the market, today, but that it is a viable and reasonable choice to feed your cat, and that the more thought and consideration you put into your cat food choice, the more likely you are to pick a decent food.
Your individual cat may have specific dietary requirements or sensitivities that mean that Fancy Feast is not the best choice, or you may pick a food that you have examined and determined to be a great food for your cat, but he or she just won't eat it. There is no perfect food for all cats. We hope that some of the issues that have come about due to recalls and consumer complaints will help change pet foods for the better. It is an ever-evolving field, and with informed consumers, things can only get better!
One of Mom’s co-workers took in a pregnant cat who soon had
a sizable litter.I was one of those
kittens. My human-mommy waited to receive me at work with a large dog crate
under her desk complete with climb-toy, litter pan, food and water.She played AC/DC songs for me because of my
namesake, Angus (Young).Lunchtime was
filled with laughter and cuteness while I cautiously explored a conference room
with Mom and her friends.Feeling
bonded, I made sure Mom could hear me calling out for her when she ran an
errand down the hallway.
Mom had an older, female cat when I entered my new
home.I loved this cat, Harrison, on
the spot; she did not like me – at all. Mom took me on a previously arranged
camping trip the next day.It
rained.I batted at the raindrops as
they ran down the outside of the tent.During dry times, I sat in my large crate on the picnic table while Mom
did her homework.At night, I slept
next to mom’s head to keep warm.Although my new sister was not pleased to see me when we returned home,
she warmed to me after six months.
I have lived life! I enjoyed speeding fearlessly through the
house and exploring every crevice.I’ve
been caught in mid air trying to fly over the balcony; I pulled a large tray of
stones and seashells off of Mom’s dresser during the night; and I knocked a
mantle clock off of a shelf - among many other misdemeanors.
A year and some later, Harrison passed on.I yowled around the condo a lot.
Thinking that I missed my sister, Mom got me a baby
brother.Before we were introduced, I
silently crept into the room where my mom was playing with Mozie … and
watched.Within four days, we were best
friends.He needed me, having been
removed from his litter too soon.I
showed him how to be a kitty-cat and life went on peacefully for the three of
us.
I still yowled a lot around the condo, though!
Several years later, I accepted a dad (after a time) and his
elderly cat.That cat passed and we got
another brother, Ru.I loved Ru!Sometimes even young cats pass and I lost my
Ru.Soon after, Dr. Palen was my
champion in helping me, who had never been sick, survive a serious URI. I was
hospitalized for days.
Much has happened between then and now.I am finally feeling well again after bouts
of ailments these past few years.
Mozie and I gained two more fur-brothers and two years after that, a sister
joined the fold.Mom and Dad have two
employees in the house now, as well. I permit them to pet me. Mom commends me
on my graciousness.
It isn’t easy maintaining Alpha-cat status with so many
changes, but I have.I love my catio
and sometimes play with the younger cats.Somewhere along the way, Mozie and I have fallen out of friendship.
I am now eleven years old. I maintain a special relationship
with Mom where she understands my quiet nature and I trust her completely.I am the one cat who eats whatever Mom or
Dad serve.My favorite toy was a
tattered ball that has been handed down to all the kittens (and has seen many
washings).We time-share the beds,
furniture, and carpet-trees around the house. Most nights I sit on Mom in her
chair and sleep by her legs. As I instruct Mom on what to write for my story, I
am dozing near old Mozie. Life is strange.
Strong, gentle silent type that I’ve become, no one would ever recognize me as
the reckless kitten that I once was.
Tabbie is the largest cat in the house and the biggest baby. His
best friend his his little brother Peetie and he
also has taken a shine to our mini doxie Oliver. He almost always
sleeps with his tongue hanging out and at the highest point in the house
(AKA top of the kitty condo). He is afraid of loud noises and the
recently acquired chickens we have. He stuck his nose in their cage and
got pecked! His favorite toy is a red feathered puff ball that he
chases around the house crashing into things around 1am every night. He
also has a stuffed wolf that he carries around and meows. He talks
and people often think he says "mama" I of course believe he is saying
it. All in all he is a big softie and a true joy to have in our lives.
Mr. April is none other then Speedy Bishop from White Lake Mi.
BORN - In Charlotte, North Carolina. Rescued at 1 day old!
STATS - Speedy is 8 1/2 yrs. old and 17# of pure Love (at home anyway )
LIKES
- Mr. April prefers Tortie girls, specifically Trixie! He enjoys long
naps in the sun on the bed, when he's not frolicking with his favorite
ECATS nip bag (best nip in town) Mr. April can also be found on cold
winter nights relaxing by the fire place before
he retires for the snuggle up with his mom!
FAVORITE TOYS- Catnip bags, and Mr. Froggy
TALENT - Gives "high paw" on command
FEARS- the new Shark vacuum monster!
MEOWS OF WISDOM - Speedy says " be sure to get your yearly wellness at ECATS, stay healthy, peace, & love."
* Mr. April is always available for fan photos & pawgraphs upon request!
I have a question that other cat owners may have: How do you shave
kitty's bum and still have kitty like you afterward? We bought clippers
and have all the length attachments. When it comes down to it, when
kitty cries, I stop trimming.
Our particular situation is Zoei. Her
fur is long and when she uses the litter pan, I think she sits right on
the litter. It must be difficult for her to hold the stance with one
back leg. The result is damp fur and (worse) poo-fur around her bum.
We've learned that the deeper the litter, the less mess on her. In the
meantime, we use a warm washcloth when necessary. She doesn't like that
so we may as well trim her fur. How can we do that with the least
amount of invasion? Thank you!!
Exclusively Cats responds:
There are a few things that you can do.
1) Acclimation and
desensitization are the key. One of our technicians has been working with my her own new kitten at
home, just to get him to accept a comb, let alone the clippers she foresees
in his future. Here is what she did:
At first, all Miles would do was bite when the comb came near him.
"When I started, I couldn't get the comb near him - he
would flip around and grab my hand and bite me every time I came near
him with a comb. Forget trying to comb him while he was in my lap or on
the floor - he would roll over and come at me, all points bared - teeth
and claws. Fortunately, he had another issue that helped me acclimate
him to combing. He also liked to jump on the kitchen table - preferably
when people are eating - and steal food. Since he hated combs so much, I
thought: "Aha! Two birds, one stone! Either he will end up letting me
comb him or he will stop getting on the table!" and started combing him
on the table.
"At first, it was just like the floor - teeth and claws -
but with food involved. Then, rather than
After 2 months, Miles allows combing, while on the table.
deterring him from the table,
he started letting me comb his head, then his mane, then his shoulders,
then the base of his tail, then under his tail, then his armpits, and
now he is finally letting me comb the tip of his tail (over the course
of 2 months). Now he jumps up on the table and lies down, then bats at
the comb that I keep there, and looks at me expectantly. I hope that
someday, I can start introducing the clippers, because I know he will
need it.
"This is my continued plan: I will start by combing
him with the clippers sitting nearby (not running). Then I will comb him
with the teeth of the clippers (not running). Then I will comb him with
the clippers sitting on the table nearby (running), then I will try
using the clippers normally, but not shave close to the skin. Then I
will attempt to shave close to the skin. I will likely always have to do
this on the table, but perhaps I can move him to the counter, or a
bathroom counter or another table besides the dinner table. I may have to involve food - no, I will almost definitely have to involve food!"
We don't know if Zoei will let you comb her (or how much of her you can
comb) but if she already loves combs, start combing her with the
clippers present, next to her. Reward any progress she makes, and don't
try to push her too far at each session. Do this daily, or at least
every other day. Develop a routine and stick with it, and with baby steps, she will gradually come around.
2) If she is cooperative but vocal, it may
help to give Xanax in preparation for grooming. A doctor would have to determine if it is appropriate for her case
to use Xanax, but we do use it regularly for cats that are stressed an
uncomfortable, for car travel and vet visits. We just gave a dose of
Xanax to a calm kitty that is here today because he is stressing out
over using his litterbox.
Feliway is another calming product
that you can try. Many anti-anxiety treatments take time to build up in
the system, but Feliway and Xanax can be used for short term stresses.
3) We are trialing a Thundershirt for our hospital cat, Mr. B, for anxiety issues. We
don't have a strong recommendation for this product, yet, but we know
that many dogs benefit from this product. We can keep you informed about
what our experience with it is.
The Thundershirt may decrease a cat's anxiety in stressful situations
4) If worst comes to worst,
and you just can't do it at home, a professional groomer may be in order
- either a groomer that comes to your house, or one who has a
brick-and-mortar store that you can visit. If she is still traumatized
by a professional groomer, you can schedule her to come in and see us
for a trim. Some cats that are terrible at home will be fine here (The same technician who is training her little guy to accept the comb had
a cat that she had to bring in here for rear end trims. She kept herself
clean until she was quite old, and was too set in her ways to acclimate,
but when she came in to the hospital, she was perfectly quiet and
docile for her trims). Other cats may benefit from a very short
anesthetic experience for their trim.
Whatever the best
solution ends up being for you, give LOTS of treats and affection when
she makes progress, and she may become more accepting over time.
Demeanor at the vet's office: Cooperative, headstrong and confident!
Indigo
(Indy) was bought from a breeder in Washington, Michigan. He was 1 of 4 Siamese blue point kittens. He was named Indigo not only because of his
color, but because he runs around the house at about 50 miles an hour,
hence Indy, reminding me of the Indy 500 race.
No matter where I am, he
is with me, especially since I have retired. He tries to help anyone
that comes in my home: contractors, friends and family. He has to be
right there including in my bed at night. He loves his "mama". He has a
great personality and will come to anyone that comes into my home. He
plays with many different toys, but prefers his little mice that he
throws all over, but his favorite past time his annoying his sister
(Kahlua, a chocolate point Siamese) bought from the same breeder.
His
favorite food is anything to do with seafood, preferably Fancy Feast,
but the ultimate is real tuna in water, not oil. Indigo drives me nuts
sometimes, but he is truly a pleasure to have around. I love him
dearly.
February is Pet Dental Health Month! Time to sit back and think about your cat's teeth!
Many people don't like to think about their cat's teeth - they're sharp, pointy reminders that your cat is a natural predator and would love to shower you with gifts of innocent birds and mice, or the occasional frog. We're reminded of their teeth when they love-nip our toes in the middle of the night, or when we get a whiff of fish-breath after dinner. However, the health of your cat's mouth is more critically important that you might realize!
Dental disease is linked to kidney disease, heart disease and other chronic illnesses. Regular dental cleanings can often prevent dental disease and the need to extract teeth. It also gives us an opportunity to address other mouth abnormalities - check for cancer, broken teeth, misaligned teeth, etc. Read on to learn more about some of the conditions that can affect your cat's mouth.
If your cat has misaligned teeth, they can poke painfully into the lip, tongue, gums or the roof of the mouth. Additionally, crowded, extra, or missing teeth can cause the same trouble.
Tartar and plaque can build up underneath the gum line and destroy the tooth from below.
Because most dental disease begins at the root of the tooth, and cat cavities (called "resorptive lesions") start from the inside and work their way to the surface, what appears to be a healthy tooth can actually be a tooth that is in the process of being destroyed.
Bacteria and white blood cells build up at the base of the tooth and can enter the blood stream or build up a pocket of infection called an abscess, which can cause facial swelling, fever, nosebleeds or sneezing, and poor appetite. Sometimes this can occur even when most of the tooth has fallen out.
This tooth is filled up with pus (white blood cells and bacteria).
That missing tooth left a big open hole that can fill with bacteria and cause infection. Besides the large blocks of tartar on the upper teeth, there is a large, painful cavity on one of the lower teeth, and a very painful area surrounding the exposed roots of another tooth affected by dental disease.
This painful condition is "stomatitis" - a severe and extremely painful swelling and inflammation of the mouth. Ouch!
If your cat has never had his teeth cleaned before, you may wonder what happens during a dental cleaning or dental surgery. To find out, you may want to read more about why dental care costs so much in veterinary medicine.
Ask any one of our patients who has had a bad tooth removed! You may not realize it, but while most cats will not stop eating if their mouth is painful, they may play less, sleep more, and lose weight. Many people are simply amazed at the positive change in their cat's attitude and health after their teeth are cleaned. Ask Rowan!
When you visit the veterinarian with your cat, and your cat
is being a bit feisty and wiggly, a technician may be called into the room to
hold your cat for you. You may wonder why that is - it's your cat, your loving
companion, after all! You should be the one holding her, right?
Unfortunately, even the sweetest of cats may become
unpredictable when frightened, and at that point, she may not care WHO is
holding her. She just wants to get away to a safe, dark spot, and hide.
One of the reasons that we bring a technician in to hold a
cat is that they have many years of experience holding unruly cats while
remaining calm and gentle, but firm. They also have a lot of experience in
avoiding getting bitten while still maintaining control of the situation,
preventing others from getting bitten as well.
Why do we care so much about bites?
Well, besides the fact that they hurt - A LOT - cat bites have a high
likelihood of becoming infected. According to a new study, about 1 in every
three people who sought medical care for a cat bite more than 24 hours after
the bite ended up being hospitalized for 3 or longer. As many as 72% of the
hospitalized patients required surgical intervention for their bite wounds.
Several of the patients needed multiple surgeries, and several had
complications such as abscesses or lingering joint mobility issues. We don't want your visit with us to end up with a doctor visit for yourself!
At Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, it is our goal to ensure that the safety of both our patients and our clients are of highest priority. For this reason, we hope that you understand when we ask you to sit back in your chair and relax while someone else holds your cat for the veterinarian. It's also one of the reasons why we might ask to take your cat "in the back".
My husband and I had been window shopping for a kitty when we came
across Winter (formerly Ringo) and Crystal (formerly Star) on the Adopt-A-Pet
web site.We were really only
looking for one cat but we found out that he and his sister were deaf and the
shelter was hoping they would be placed together, so we applied to adopt one or
both.
They came from a mean breeder somewhere in Genesee County and once
she realized that Winter & Crystal were deaf she was going to drown them due
to the “defect”.Luckily
Adopt-A-Pet in Fenton intervened and they were rescued.After that they were adopted out to a
couple in the area but for some reason were then returned to Adopt-A-Pet.These poor kitties couldn’t catch a
break!
I remember the day we met them.We went in the kitty room and Crystal
jumped up on my husband’s lap and proceeded to adopt HIM.Then Winter got on my lap and laid on
his side and let me pet his super soft hair….the softest I have ever felt!Crystal was the type of cat that was a
no-brainer to adopt so she was leaving for sure.Winter was also very sweet but we
struggled with did we need to adopt a second cat.Who were we kidding…Winter was such a
LOVER!After spending a little time
with them we knew they were both coming home!
Winter has turned out to be a mamma’s boy and comes to me
constantly for love and snuggles.He likes to get his beauty sleep and groom his lovely coat, but also
likes to zoom through the house and chase the girls.He also loves to sneak up on his sister
Crystal and jump on her…the fun of having a deaf
sister!
His nick-name is Winter the Warlock and he is such a wise soul even
though he is young. ..you can just see it in his eyes.He will constantly meow if he wants food
or attention and he likes to “bite” your hand or arm if you aren’t paying enough
attention to you.His bite is
gentle but he will hang on to you until he gets your FULL attention!He loves canned food but if he doesn’t
like what he is served will try to bury it….then we have to move to Fancy
Feast.He doesn’t play with toys
too much but he loves to use his scratching post and zoom up the cat trees in
the house.
What a
wonderful decision it was to adopt both of them…they have been a delightful
addition to our family and even after several years they still hang out
together, play with each other and snuggle.They were destined to be together and we
are so happy that we could make it
happen!
Hi, I need some advice. Unfortunately I have to move, and I have to move to a place that is probably going to make Venus and Serena pretty unhappy. I am moving to a home where there are 2 male cats and a boxer. I know in the beginning I'm going to have to have everything in my bedroom. Litter box, food dishes and their beloved tree. This is all making me pretty anxious, I really worry about their transition. Can you give me any advice on how I can make them more comfortable? This is going to be a huge change for them, and as they are older I want to do whatever I can to make sure they are happy girls. And how I can stop freaking out over this because I don't want them feeding off of my anxious feelings? I appreciate any thoughts on this.
Thanks! Aggie
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ECVH answer:
In addition to other suggestions that focus strictly on the girls' behavior, we would recommend bringing them in for a check-up, if possible, to ensure that they have no underlying health issues that would make the transition even harder - this would also hopefully help relieve some of your anxiety, if they both check out to be in good health. This way, we also have a current weight on your cat, so that if we need to eventually resort to medication, we can correctly dose it.
Prepare for some hissing and growling as you go along, even if things are going well.
Definitely, you are starting out right, by getting your cats used to one room where they can feel safe. Things like Feliway spray or diffusers have a calming pheromone that can speed up your cat's ability to acclimate to a new environment.
We also have NurtureCalm pheromone collars which they can wear (One of our technicians feels that they have really helped settle things down between her two old girls and her two new boys). We do warn that if they are not used to collars, the NurtureCalm collars may add stress, though, as some cats don't like having something around their necks. We have also had one patient who had a pretty impressive skin irritation after wearing the collar for 3 weeks.
Composure or Anxitane are non-medicated treats and pills that you can give (L-theanine and B vitamins) to elevate mood and calm stressed cats. In severe cases of anxiety, we can discuss the use of anti-anxiety medications such as Elavil, Buspar, and Xanax, if needed.
Under-the-door interactions are a good step forward!
When you feel that your cats are comfortable in their new bedroom, you can start to work on introducing them to the resident pets. I usually recommend putting the resident pets in the bedroom where the new cats have been and giving the new cats a chance to explore the rest of the house on their own. This also allows the resident pets to smell the scent of the new cats without seeing the new cats. When introducing cats, it is 99% about smell. The more the cats smell like each other when they first meet, the less stress there will be. They will be less likely to first think OMG STRANGER!" and more likely do think "You seem familiar - do I know you from somewhere?" Trading unwashed blankets between pet beds, using the same brush on all pets are other things that you can do to facilitate this.
Feed all pets near the bedroom door for a while. You can try encouraging play under the door with two cat toys tied together dumb-bell style and placed on either side of the door so both cats can play but can't steal the toy away. Eventually, prop the door slightly open so they can see each other while eating once you are sure that they will eat by the door. You may also consider replacing the door with a screen door for a while, or a tall baby gate, if your cats are not jumpers. If this is not an option, you can put your cats (the newer residents) in carriers and feed place the carriers in the room where the other pets eat and feed everyone - this allows visual interaction but not physical interaction, and allows the resident pets to feel non-threatened by the newer introductions to the house. Food lends a positive note to the experience. Once the animals are eating harmoniously, you can start to allow short, supervised interactions without the crates or screens. These interactions can gradually increase in length until you are comfortable letting them interact when they are not supervised.
The important thing to remember in this situation is that you need to relax and let the cats drive the progress. In some situations, the process of introduction can take a few days, in other situations, it can take months. However, the more willing you are to take a step backward as needed, the more likely you are to have long-term success.
Watch your cats for subtle signs of relaxed or stressed behaviors:
Cats usually try to avoid direct physical confrontation by warning off a strange cat, or ignoring them completely. When it does come down to a real, physical fight, here is what to expect. As it mentions in the article, aggressive cats stare at each other, trying to gauge the other cat's next action. You can de-escalate an aggressive interaction by blocking the cats from each other's sight. This gives a cat who doesn't really want to fight a chance to escape, unnoticed. It also distracts the aggressor by making him relocate the cat he is trying to provoke. This is not a long-term solution, but can calm things down if they start to escalate.
One of our techs introduced two new cats into her house this past year (August and October - she introduced the October cat to give the August cat a young playmate and deter attention from her old ladies) and there are still occasional altercations - nothing too serious, but some yowling and growling when one of the youngsters gets too feisty. She uses a combination of calming collars on her old girls and Composure treats for her young boys, and it seems to keep everyone fairly happy. Initially, one of her old girls became extremely distressed whenever one of the young
Often cat aggression involves conflict over a distance. The cat on the right is being aggressive and the one on the left is submissive, but neither is happy with the situation...
boys pounced on her playfully. One of the young males would posture over her in an aggressive dominance pose - about a foot away from her), which would also cause her to roll on her back, scream and urinate in defensive-submissive posture (both almost exactly as in the photo above). Now, she just growls a little and hisses to warn them off, and they have learned to respect her wishes and keep their distance (most of the time...). Each situation is unique, though, so we can help guide you in your decisions to help ease Venus and Serena's transition.
We also have a blog article with some additional suggestions here:
Preparation.
Most cats hate the carrier and get stressed when they travel - often because
the only time they get in the carrier is when they go to the vet! The trick to
a stress-free trip in the car for your cat is positive association. With your
cat safely it its carrier, take many short, treat-filled trips around the
block. If a car ride equals fun and treats, your pet will be less stressed when
it's time to take travel seriously. In addition, leaving the carrier out long-term
with bedding in it, or feeding your cat in the carrier will help your cat feel
less stressed when it comes time to get into the carrier for travel.
For
long trips, pack a "cat bag" full of supplies, including food and
water, portable bowls, litter box, waste bags, cleaning supplies, a bed or
towel, any medications, toys, and a pet first aid kit like this one suggested by the Red Cross.
Feed
your pet a couple of hours prior to departure rather than right before. This
can prevent them from getting sick while traveling. Take extra food and water
and pack it so that it is accessible - you never know when you may get stuck in
traffic, miss your connecting flight or otherwise be delayed.
If
your trip is over the course of several days, make sure your cat will be
welcome everywhere you plan to stop. Many hotels and motels allow pets, but not
all. A good resource for trip planning is http://www.petswelcome.com/
Prevent your cat from taking over your travel plans by securing him in a cat carrier.
Restraint. Make sure your pet is properly restrained
whenever you travel by car. AAA reports that every year, 30,000 car accidents
are caused due to unrestrained pets. The simplest and safest method is a
well-ventilated carrier of the appropriate size which is securely fastened
inside the car. It is not safe to let your pet sit on your lap or be
unrestrained in your vehicle. It seems that the favorite hiding place for a cat
in a car is right under the brake pedal. In addition, if you open the door, the
cat may leap out and take off running into traffic, instead of waiting for you
to pick him up. If you need to stop suddenly while driving, cat that is not in
a carrier can become a projectile and could suffer severe injuries.
Remember, when traveling with your cat, never to leave him unattended in a
parked car, even with the windows cracked. Even on a mild day, it doesn’t take
long for the temperature inside a parked car to become dangerously hot or cold.
The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends stopping about every
2-3 hours to allow your pet to stretch her legs, if possible.
Identification. Whenever you travel with your pet, make
sure your cat has current identification, ideally a highly visible collar and
ID tag in addition to a permanent form of identification such as a microchip,
in case the collar becomes separated from your pet.
Talk to your vet. Let your cat’s veterinarian know about your
upcoming trip and see what he or she has to say. Since your veterinarian is
aware of your cat’s health and behavior, make sure they feel that it’s okay for
your pet to travel with you. You don’t want to expose your cat to unnecessary
risks, so make sure his shots are current before traveling. If your cat becomes
extremely stressed during travel and leaving him at home is not an option, this
would also be a good time to discuss whether or not your veterinarian feels it
would be appropriate for your cat to receive a mild tranquilizer. Be sure to
bring a health certificate and proof of vaccination with you — you may need
both when traveling through some states. If you are planning to fly with your
pet, make sure to check with your airline for their health certificate
requirements. Most airlines want a certificate dated within 10 days of travel,
so even if your cat has had her annual checkup, she may need one just before
you leave. If you are traveling internationally, especially for travel to
islands, there may be medical treatment, quarantine, or testing requirements up
to 12 months prior to travel! It is also a good idea to do some homework and
locate the name and phone number for an emergency veterinarian at your
destination.
Pet Travel Check List:
Properly-sized crate or
harness
Food
Water
Toys
Bedding
Collar
Litter box
Pet first aid kit
Name and phone number of your current vet and a vet in
your destination
Demeanor at the vet's office: Grumpy. Sherlock needs sedation for his exams - but we know that he is an awesome, loving cat at home!
Hello, my name is Sherlock Holmes. I am 9 years old and I live with my family in Walled Lake Michigan. I was born in Hikone Japan. When I was just a few days old, someone shut me in a box and put me by a river. I was very lucky my mom heard me crying while walking home from work. She had only been living in Japan a few weeks at the time. She found a nice vet, Dr. Miyajima, who took care of me for a few weeks until my eyes opened and I was well enough to come home. My mom kept me warm, bottle fed me, and played with me a lot. I lived for the first few years of my life in a small apartment in Hikone until my mom decided to move back to America.
I had no idea where America was but it must have been very far away. I was in my carrier for two hours on a train and 14 hours on a plane. My mom had my carrier on her lap the whole time, but I was still very scared. I like living in Michigan. I have many bird and squirrel friends that come to my door wall everyday to say 'hi'. I am a bit of a trouble-maker and very wary of people I don't know. My favorite things are eating tuna, being warm, and hanging out with my family.
