Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Meet Mr. October!

LEO

Age: 17 months

Weight: 10.65 pounds - Good body condition

Gender: Neutered Male

Demeanor at the Veterinary Office: Very cooperative boy!

Leo's mom reports:

Leo was born in April of 2013. He is very adventurous, and likes to climb everything. Whenever I am coming home, he is always sitting on the kitchen window sill. When he was a baby, he was so small, I had to build him stairs to get everywhere. Now, he is able to jump from the ground onto the top of the refrigerator! Quite fussy, Leo does not like to be held, and yet, demands attention. He contorts and stretches his body as he sleeps, and his favorite toy is a brand new cardboard box to jump around in.

 




 

Monday, September 29, 2014

Disease monograph: Feline Leukemia Part 1: What is it?





Feline Leukemia Virus is a disease is transmitted between cats by a virus. The Feline Leukemia virus is a retrovirus from a family of viruses called oncornaviruses - viruses that cause the development of cancers (among other effects). A retrovirus is a virus that interacts with the genetic material of its host in order to reproduce. Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) causes immunosuppression, or failure of the body's natural defenses, in many feline species - the domestic cat is most susceptible, but large cat species such as lynxes, Florida panthers, cheetahs and lions have also been reportedly infected. This virus is not known to pass between non-feline species, so humans and dogs appear to be safe.

How is Feline Leukemia transmitted?
Electron micrograph of FeLV - from Wikipedia

The virus is shed in the saliva of an infected cat, and to some degree in respiratory secretions. Most cats receive the virus through the mouth. Generally, it is considered that the virus is transmitted through long term contact with an infected individual - such as sharing litterboxes and food bowls, mutual grooming, or through a bite. Mating behavior may also transmit the virus. Additionally, kittens can contract FeLV from their mother in utero and be positive from birth, or they can contract the virus through their mother's milk. Petting a feline leukemia positive cat and then petting a non-infected cat will not transmit the disease.

The frequency of FeLV positive cats varies greatly between areas. In some areas, the incidence can be as high as 70% in large multi-cat homes where cats have outdoor access. In single-cat, indoor homes, the prevalence is around 3% (3 in 10 cats). FeLV tends to be more common in urban cats (up to 40%) than in rural cats (up to 6%), because cats live in higher population densities and therefore have more contact with each other.

Healthy cats that test positive should not be allowed to roam outside, because they can infect other cats they come across. Additionally, other cats that live in the same household should be vaccinated, and it is recommended that the FeLV positive cat not have contact with the other cats because no vaccine is 100% effective, and the FeLV positive cat may spread other diseases that their weakened immune system allows them to contract.

Signs and symptoms

Not all cats that contract the feline leukemia virus actually develop "leukemia" (cancer of the white blood cells - specifically in the bone marrow), but leukemia is one of the cluster of diseases and symptoms that can develop when a cat is infected with this virus. Common symptoms of FeLV include poor appetite, poor coat and skin condition, fever, lethargy, weight loss, and anemia. Anemia is present in about 25% of all FeLV-related illness. Fifty percent of infected cats that become ill develop immunosuppression, or immune system failure, to some degree.

Various organ diseases can develop, such as liver or intestinal disease. Many cats may experience prolonged healing times after surgery or wounds. Additional signs may include uneven pupil size (anisocoria), swollen lymph nodes (lymphadenopathy), various secondary infections (bladder, skin, respiratory tract - bacterial or viral origins), gingivitis, stomatitis, diarrhea, jaundice, and a type of cancer called lymphosarcoma. Cats that are infected with FeLV are 50 times more likely to develop lymphosarcoma than non-infected cats. Lymphosarcoma (sometimes called lymphoma) is a cancer that consists primarily of a type of white blood cell called "lymphocytes". It can affect almost any organ in the body, but in young cats, it often appears in the chest cavity. In older cats, lymphoma of the intestinal tract is more common. Often in intestinal cases, there is no obvious mass or lump to find, but instead a generalized thickening of the intestine.

  • Pale gums (or pale nail beds)
  • Jaundice - yellow color to eyes, mouth, ears or other exposed skin and/or extremely dark, staining urine
    Jaundice coloring the roof of a cat's mouth
  • Enlarged lymph nodes
  • Chronic infections of respiratory tract, bladder or skin
  • Gingivitis
  • Weight loss/poor appetite
  • Fever
  • Poor coat
  • Progressive weakness/sleepiness/lethargy/reclusiveness/hiding
  • Diarrhea
  • Vomiting
  • Dehydration
  • Breathing difficulty
  • Reproductive problems - sterility, miscarriage

There are four possible paths the disease can take in an infected cat. These potential outcomes depend on the amount of virus the cat is exposed to, the strain of the virus (there are 4 unique strains of FeLV), the cat's initial health level (the effectiveness of his immune system and the presence of any other health complications), and age.

If a cat tests positive for FeLV, one of the following will occur:

1) IMMUNITY - Some cats are able to fight off the virus and become immune. Some of these cats completely eliminate all traces of the virus from their bodies. The cat may have some mild signs of illness - fever, poor appetite, large lymph nodes, lethargy for up to 10 days and then recover. This outcome occurs about 40% of the time, and is more likely in adults than in kittens.

2) PROGRESSIVE INFECTION - The second possibility is that the cat may become infected and develop a compromised immune system. The cat may have a short illness and recover enough to be outwardly healthy for 2-3 years in 50% of the cases. This outcome occurs about 30% of the time, and is more common in kittens than in adult cats. The bone marrow, which produces new blood cells, becomes infected and each new blood cell that is produced will contain more virus, creating a "persistent viremia" or constant presence of virus in the bloodstream. The infection is progressive, gradually taking hold in various body organs. Lymphoma is the final stage of the disease.

3) LATENT INFECTION -  Up to 30% of the time, cats will develop a latent infection. These cats may test positive at first, and then test negative 3-4 weeks later. The virus does not kill the cat's cells once it is inserted into the cellular DNA, but sits in wait. Eventually the body may reject these abnormal cells or the cat will become sick. While healthy, these cats will continue test negative on FeLV tests, but if vaccinated, will not be protected. Pregnant cats with latent infection may test FeLV negative but produce FeLV positive kittens. A latent infection may eventually result in immunity or may develop into active infection at some point in the future. Many cats with lymphoma (a common end-stage of FeLV) do still carry some FeLV DNA and are suspected by some to be latently infected with Feline Leukemia Virus.

4)  CARRIER STATE - Others may experience a "regressive infection" and continue to harbor the virus or particles of virus in a few cells, but the virus cannot replicate. In these cats, there is rarely any sign of illness, and they do not shed the virus. This outcome is extremely rare, occuring only about 1-2% of the time. These cats will test positive on ELISA test but negative on IFA tests. They may remain asymptomatic for a long time, even years. These cats are considered "carriers", and while they may never get sick, they can infect other cats. Eventually, these cats may develop active infection or develop latent infection. 

Monday, September 22, 2014

Feline Sense and Scents-ability: Part 4: Sight




SIGHT

Despite those huge, luminous eyes that sometimes seem to glow in the dark, a cat’s sense of sight is probably its least important sense next to taste! Cats can thrive with only one eye or even no eyes! Without sight, a cat relies on its sense of touch and hearing to map out the world, just like a human would.

The glow that you see in your cat’s eyes is light reflecting off a membrane lining the retina that collects and amplifies light called the tapetum lucidum. Because of this membrane, cats can see in as little as 1/6th the light that humans need to see – but they still can’t see in complete darkness. Cats have many more rod light receptors than cone light receptors in their retina. Rod receptors are good at sensing motion and seeing in low-light conditions. Cones are the light receptors that sense color variation. What this means is that in order to see so well in so little light, cats sacrifice some clarity of vision, but they are much more skilled at sensing tiny motions, have extremely well-developed depth perception and much more acute low-light vision. They also have 200 degrees of visual field vs. human 180 degrees but their field of binocular vision is slightly narrower than ours. What a human can see clearly at 100 feet, a cat can only see clearly as far as 20 feet.

People often wonder if cats can see colors. They can, but their perception of color is much more limited than ours. They have dichromatic vision, meaning that they have two types of cone light receptors in their eyes - yellow/green and blue. Humans have trichromatic vision, meaning that in addition to the color receptors that cats have, we also have receptors that sense the color red. Cats can tell the difference between green, blue and yellow, but probably have difficulty distinguishing between red and green. Cats are able to distinguish between colors at the blue end of the spectrum (long wavelengths) better than between colors near the red end of the spectrum (short wavelengths).

Photo interpretation by Nicolay Lamm (http://www.wired.com/2013/10/cats-eye-view/)

While color and field of vision are limited, a cat seems to be exquisitely sensitive to sensing motion, or changes within the field of vision. It is thought by some that instead of seeing fluid motion, cats may see a "stop-motion" view of the world, giving their brain time to compare each "scene" to the one before and process minute differences between each image.




A cat’s eyes can indicate a lot about its mood – the cat’s pupils dilate up to five times their normal size when it is frightened or threatened, or about to pounce. When cats are content, they squint their eyes.

This alert kitten's dilated eyes mean it is likely going to pounce
This cat's dilated eyes mean it is ready for a fight, with ears tucked back protectively
Cats have a third eyelid or nictitating membrane that closes across the eye from the inner corner. This third eyelid is whitish in color and is usually retracted when the cat is awake. When a cat is ill, the third eyelid often becomes visible as it relaxes and covers part of the eye. Sometimes, this is due to an eye infection or injury, but it can also mean that the cat doesn't feel well in other ways.

Besides eye disorders, third eyelid elevation can also commonly be caused by fever and vestibular (inner ear) problems
Because cats don’t see well close up, it seems that cat food and toys that come in fun shapes and colors are designed more for humans enjoyment than for cats – smell, sound and motion are much more fun to them.Instead of using sight for close-up encounters, cats point their whiskers forward and use the sense of touch to guide them.



So, to better understand your cat, instead of taking a “cat’s eye view” of the world, perhaps it would be better to take a sniff and a listen, instead?

Monday, September 15, 2014

Feline Sense and Scents-ability: Part 3: Touch




TOUCH

Cats have a highly developed sense of touch. Most obviously, they have 24 vibrissae, or whiskers, grouped in 4 sets on each side of the nose. The whiskers on the face are called mystacials and the top rows can move independently from the lower rows. The whiskers above the eyebrows are called superciliary whiskers. There are also whiskers on the backs of a cat’s front legs associated with the accessory carpal gland. All these thick hairs, about 2 times thicker than the rest of a cat’s fur, and rooted 3 times deeper in the skin, are surrounded at the base by bundles of nerve receptors that send messages to a special area of the brain called the barrel cortex. There, the nerve signals create a 3-D map of the spatial environment based on a cat’s touch in a way very similar to the visual cortex’s map of the visual environment.

Cats’ whiskers also help them judge distances – from planning and executing aerial acrobatics to deciding if they will fit through small openings, and they are also a measure of a cat’s mood. Whiskers that are perked forward and spread widely apart communicate that a cat is alert and interested in the environment, possibly aggressive. Whiskers that are relaxed and positioned slightly downward indicate that the cat is feeling passive. Whiskers that are plastered back against the cat’s face indicate anger.

Cats can’t see directly underneath their noses, but they can spread their whiskers forward around their nose to form a “basket” that identifies the location of objects the cat can’t see – such as that tasty treat you just offered her. Subtle changes in air movement that move the whiskers as little as 1/200th the width of a human hair can also help alert cats to prey they can’t see.

Rexes and Sphynx breeds tend to have very short, curly whiskers
Avoid cutting your cat’s whiskers, as they are a valuable part of how a cat “sees” the world. The whiskers of most cats (Rexes and Sphynxes excluded) are as wide as their body, so any opening that they can pass their whiskers through without resistance is an opening they can fit their body through. Cats with trimmed whiskers, or cats that are overweight run the risk of getting stuck.


Interestingly, it seems that many cats prefer to eat off of a flat or very wide, shallow dish instead of a deep, high-sided bowl because the flat dish does not interfere with their whiskers. This seems to be especially true of cats that are not feeling well.

The places on your cat's body that are most touch-sensitive are the face and the front paws. These parts of the body are your cat’s most important hunting tools.

Also, cats tend to develop surface texture preferences for everything – from litter to scratching posts, to beds. Pay careful attention to what your cat tells you – if she is not using the litter box, perhaps she doesn’t like the feel of wheat litter. If she likes to scratch on your nylon duffel bag instead of her carpet-covered scratching post, perhaps a sisal-rope post that has a little rougher texture to it would be a welcome change.

In addition to the ability to sense distance, movement and texture, cats are born with a highly developed sense of temperature sense. In the first 10 to 14 days of a kitten's life, they learn to navigate by differences in temperature. Heat receptors at the tip of a kitten’s nose detects variation in temperature as small as 0.9 degrees F, which helps the sightless infant navigate towards its mother and siblings.

Monday, September 8, 2014

Feline Sense and Scents-ability: Part 2: Taste and Smell




TASTE AND SMELL

Cats rarely chew on plants, compared to dogs, because the main draw that plants provide is their sweet sugar content. Cats not only fail to taste sweet things, they also deal with sugars poorly in other ways – among other things, they lack a sugar digestion enzyme that both dogs and people have called “glucokinase” which helps break down sugars inside the cells.

Because cats can’t taste sweets, they don’t really “enjoy” sugary snacks the way we would. The inclusion of carbohydrates in cat food has become a very “hot topic” in feline nutrition – while corn and other carbohydrate sources, blueberries, kelp and cranberries may contain many beneficial nutrients, cats likely do not appreciate the flavor, and in some cases it is not certain how well they digest these ingredients.

Most cats prefer canned diets in which the first several ingredients are meat-based. Canned food is better for cats than dry diets because it contains a high water content (about 80%), which helps maintain a lower urine specific gravity (less “stuff” in the urine), which helps protect the kidneys and can help prevent urinary crystals and stones. Most of the cats that we see at Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital who are urinating outside the box and have bladder stones or uncomfortable crystals in their urine are eating a dry-food-only diet.

Something else to note – cats do not like bitter taste any more than people do. If you use baking soda in your litter box as a deodorizer and your cat starts eliminating elsewhere, you might stop adding the baking soda to the box. It is quite bitter in taste, and while cats don’t eat litter, they do groom their paws after using the box, so can associate the bad taste of the baking soda with using the litter!

Additionally, some medications or smells that are bitter will cause your cat to drool profusely. This is a reflex that cats have developed to rid their mouths of a bad taste (often bad taste = poison, especially if your diet includes frogs and toads).
  
In 2005, a study was done that discovered the entire cat family is lacking the gene for tasting the flavor “sweet”. They have taste buds in that region of the tongue, but they do not function. Cats do taste salty, sour and bitter. Their favorite tastes are salty and sour. Some cats are drawn to “sweet” foods, but it is likely the fat content vs. the flavor that they like.

Their sense of taste is much duller than ours as well – where a human tongue has over 9,000 taste
Cat displaying flehmen expression
buds, a cat has only 473! The cat may make up for this lack of taste buds with the small Jacobson’s organ at the front of its mouth – a “vomeronasal” organ which is slightly different than either smell or taste. You can see the ducts leading to this organ in the roof of your cat’s mouth behind the upper incisors. The organ sits right at the front of the mouth and connects to the nasal passages. Snakes, elephants and horses also have this organ, among other animals. Humans, it seems, do not have a working vomeronasal organ. To use it most effectively, the cat passes air over the front of the tongue and then touches the tongue to this sensory organ to deposit pheromone molecules there. You can see your cat using this organ when it wrinkles its lips, opens its mouth and slightly sticks its tongue out when “smelling” an area where it finds an interesting smell.


With 200 million odor-sensitive cells in its nose, compared to a human’s paltry five million, a cat’s sense of smell is much more sensitive than ours. However, they don’t hold a candle to a dog’s smelling ability. Dogs have between 149 million and 300 million receptors. Still, smell is one of a cat’s more important senses. Because smell is so important to cats, a stuffed up nose can be extremely detrimental! If a cat can’t smell his food, he is highly likely to turn his nose up at it. Conversely, a scented litter that we find to be pleasantly fresh-smelling is like drowning in perfume to a cat’s sensitive schnozz.
Add caption

Monday, September 1, 2014

Meet Mr. September!


SMEAGOL


Age: 3 years
Breed: Devon Rex
Gender: Male
Weight: 9.6 pounds - excellent body condition!
Feline friends: Spaz (12 year old DLH)

Smeagol is a white, male devonshire rex of about 10 lbs.

He enjoys Whiskas temptations treats, cardboard boxes, playing fetch, stalking, and snuggles.

Sometimes he is where he is not supposed to be such as: the top of ladders, up on shelves, or on the kitchen counters. He refers to these places as “the land of above.”

He is a snuggle cat and he will make multiple attempts and whines until he gets a lap or can burrow under a blanket.

He likes to help whenever work is being done. As condo repairs happen here and there, Smeagol will always be near. He inspects everything, and anything new must meet his high standards.



Boxes are his favorite thing to play with, when a new package arrives he is there waiting for it to be opened. Sometimes he cannot wait and will assist in the opening of the package.
 
 
 
 
 
 When you meet Smeagol, he will take a while to warm up to you but once he is happy with you he will climb to the top of your shoulder and sit there. This is now his spot and he is your friend.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
        

Monday, August 25, 2014

Feline Sense and Scents-ability: Part 1: Hearing


Veiny Cat Ear from fantasystock.deviantart.com | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI
Cat Ear from fantasystock.deviantart.com

Feline Sense and Scents-ability


Even though cats have the same five senses humans do, their perception of the world is much different. Sometimes, trying to understand a cat’s point of view can help shed some light on problems you may be having with your cat.

HEARING


Feline hearing is functionally the same as human hearing. The pinna, or outer portion of the ear, collects sound waves and translates them down the ear canal. In humans, the ear canal is a straight shot to the ear drum, while cats have a vertical canal connected to a horizontal canal in an “L” shape from the top of the head, straight down and then turning inward. Once the sound waves have rounded the corner of the ear canal, they cause the eardrum to vibrate, stimulating the ossicles of the middle ear (tiny bones called the malleus, incus and stapes - otherwise known as the hammer, anvil and stirrup). These ossicles transmit the sound waves to the cochlea.
Cat Ear Anatomy | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI
Cat ear anatomy

The cochlea is a fluid-filled structure in the middle ear. The sound waves are translated to fluid waves in the cochlea that are then sensed by nerves connected to fine hairs that float in the fluid and is then sent on to the brain for interpretation. This is the area that a human “cochlear implant” stimulates to help correct hearing loss. The feline cochlea has 3 complete turns while the human cochlea only has 2.75 turns. They have 10,000 more auditory nerves than humans. Near the cochlea is another fluid- and carbonate crystal-filled structure called the vestibular apparatus that is in charge of balance.

Cats are exquisitely adept at locating prey. They can distinguish between two different sound sources 8 cm apart (shorter than the length of an iPhone) at 2 yards and 40cm apart (about 1 foot, or a little longer than 3 iPhones) at 20 yards. They can hear a rustling mouse 20-30 yards away. They can hear 10 distinct octaves of notes vs. humans’ 8.5 octaves. They even hear one octave above their canine counterparts.

Chart courtesy of www.watchingtheworldwakeup.blogspot.com
There are 4 sets of muscles that control the motion of the cat’s external ear flap, or pinna, and allow it to rotate 180 degrees to catch a sound and orient on it. You can use this information to make playtime more interesting for your cat. Make “hide and seek” with toys more challenging by using quieter, less obvious “prey”. Test your cat’s auditory awareness with a tiny crinkle from a crinkle-toy. See if they notice.  

Even though you think they can’t hear you, don’t yell at your cat! He can hear you, he just isn’t listening to you.

When your cat is sleeping it is still attentively listening, scanning for audible information, which is why your “soundly sleeping cat” is standing right at your feet the second you open a can of food. 


Monday, August 18, 2014

Cats and Vaccinations - Frequently Asked Questions



Black cat licking veterinarian after exam  | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI
"Thank you" kisses for Dr. Demos!
The most important reason that your cat should visit the veterinarian 1-2 times yearly is for the expert physical exam your pet's doctor performs. A proactive approach to your cat's health, focused on wellness and preventive care can be beneficial because illness and disease can be detected earlier, when treatments may be more successful and less costly. In addition to physical examinations and discussing your cat's diet and litterbox habits, when your veterinarian discusses your cat's health with you, he or she will likely recommend updating your cat's vaccinations.

What are vaccinations?

Vaccinations are injections of a substance that stimulates a cat's immune system, preparing the body to fight disease-causing organisms. Most vaccinations are developed for viral infections - diseases that cannot be treated with antibiotics. Some vaccines are developed for severe bacterial diseases, too.

Types of Vaccines -
  • Inactivated vaccines or "killed virus" vaccinations are vaccines that contain viruses that are unable to reproduce in the body. The majority of this type of vaccine contains adjuvants.
  • Modified-live vaccines contain viruses that can replicate, but do not cause clinical disease. While it is unlikely, it is theoretically possible for this type of vaccine to revert to virulence and cause disease.
  • Recombinant vaccines do not contain the whole virus, but specific parts of the virus DNA that the body's immune system recognizes as an invader, but that don't actually cause disease. These strings of proteins are either inserted into a non-disease-causing virus (vectored vaccine) or are inserted into bacterial DNA (called plasmids) so that antigens can be harvested and purified for use in vaccines (subunit vaccine).

Why do cats need vaccinations?

Vaccinations are very important to the health of your cat - the diseases we vaccinate for are diseases that do not respond well to treatment, and in most cases are deadly or produce life-long complications. Diseases like distemper are extremely long-lasting in the environment, lasting for years and can be brought into your home on your hands, feet or clothing if you come into contact with the virus particles in the environment. Additionally, the virus that causes distemper is resistant to disinfectants, can be passed to kittens through breast milk from the mother and can be acquired in utero. During the summer, cats that go outdoors are at higher risk because they are more likely to spend a longer or more frequent amount of time outdoors. Other diseases that we vaccinate for can be transmitted through the air. Rabies virus is transmitted by the bite of an infected animal, and despite common misconception, an infected animal is not always the raging, frothing creature that you see in the movies. Most skunks do not show signs or symptoms of infection, and any skunk that you encounter should be considered to be a carrier of rabies. In  companion animals, signs of infection may not show up for 10 days after the animal begins shedding the virus - so if your cat gets into a fight with a stray cat that seems healthy, that cat could be rabies positive, but may not be recognizably so until it has disappeared into the woods again.

But my cat doesn't go outside he doesn't need vaccinations!

Indoor cats are definitely at lower risk for communicable diseases, however there are many factors that still create risk for these cats. If you bring a new cat into the house from a rescue or shelter, you may be bringing disease into your home. A trip to the pet store to buy cat food may result in virus particles on your clothing that you can bring home to your cat. A friend with a sick pet may bring virus particles into your home while visiting. Airborn viruses can travel into your home through open windows and doors. You may bring virus particles in on your shoes after working in the yard. A stray cat may visit your screen door. Your cat may need to be boarded in an emergency situation, and would require vaccinations to do so.

In the case of rabies, the major carrier of this disease in Michigan is the bat. We very frequently receive phone calls from people telling us that they found a live or dead bat in their home, and most people do not know that a bat has access to their home until it is inside. Most bats are able to squeeze through extremely narrow openings; the little brown bat can enter a space (5/8" by 7/8") and the big brown bat can squeeze through an opening (1-1/4" by 1/2"). Bat bites are almost microscopic, so you would be unable to tell if your cat had been bitten by the bat. If your unvaccinated cat were to escape from your home and get bitten by an unknown animal, vaccination after the fact would not be guaranteed protection, and Michigan Public Health officials must proceed as though the animal that bit your pet was positive, euthanizing and testing your cat. If your unvaccinated cat bites a person, it could result in a 10 day quarantine at an animal shelter at your expense.

Rabies is a life threatening disease and in companion animals, there is no cure. The only definitive test for rabies requires euthanasia of the animal in question and examination of the brain tissue. By the time your pet starts showing signs of disease, you could already have been exposed. While rabies vaccinations are not required by law for cats in the state of Michigan, the safest thing to do for you and your cat is keep your pet's vaccines up to date.

For the health and safety of all of our patients and staff, all cats that come into our hospital for surgical or dental care or boarding must be up to date on vaccinations.


How often do cats need vaccinations?

The number and frequency of vaccines recommended for a cat is often a complex and individualized plan based on each cat's age, lifestyle, risk assessment and health status. However, there are some general guidelines that have been established by scientific study and experts in the field that are upheld by professional groups that specialize in feline medicine, such as the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) and the International Society of Feline Medicine (ISFM).  In some states, certain vaccinations and schedules are required by law.

Kittens are more susceptible to disease because their immune systems are not fully developed. Kittens raised by their mothers receive antibodies from their mothers, but these antibodies can interfere with vaccinations. Since we do not know for certain how long maternal antibodies remain active, or if every mother cat provides antibodies to all the major diseases, kittens need a series of vaccines to provide immunity. This series should continue until the kitten is at least 16 weeks of age. Additionally, any cat receiving a vaccination for the first time, no matter how old they are, will usually need a series of two vaccinations to ensure adequate protection.


It is recommended that even if a cat is not due for vaccination in a given year, they should be evaluated by a veterinarian at least annually, to ensure that health and risk status has not changed.

Cats should be tested for Feline Leukemia before starting the series of Feline Leukemia vaccinations because there is no medical benefit in giving a Leukemia vaccine to an infected cat. There are no negative side effects to vaccinating an infected cat, but this also eliminates the possibility of failing to recognize vaccine failure. If a previously untested cat who has been vaccinated for Feline Leukemia is later tested and is positive for Feline Leukemia, there is no way to tell if the Leukemia virus has been present long term or if the cat was recently exposed and the vaccine did not protect him. 

What are the possible side effects of vaccination?

The currently available feline vaccines do have an excellent safety record, however negative events following vaccination can occur. It is important to report these events to your veterinarian if they do occur, as veterinarians are requested to report adverse events to the manufacturer, as well as the USDA. It is also important to note that not all negative events that may follow vaccination can be directly said to be caused by the vaccine with 100% certainty. 

During the years 2002 - 2005, more than 1.25 million vaccines were given to cats at Banfield Hospitals across the US. In that time period, 51.6/10,000 cats had reactions within 30 days of vaccination (0.52%). Of these reactions, 54% experienced lethargy (weakness/tiredness) with or without fever, 25% experienced pain at the injection site, 10% experienced vomiting, 6% experienced facial swelling, 2% experienced generalized itching. Death occurred in 4 cats (0.04%) - two of these deaths were related to anaphylaxis (allergic reaction). Vaccines containing a Chlamydophila component were more likely to cause lethargy and fever than those without. Several other vaccine reaction studies report a rate of adverse reaction between 0.23% and 3% depending on the type of vaccination, the number of vaccinations given at one time, and the type of reaction being monitored.

Anaphylaxis or "allergic reaction" occurs rarely (about 1-5/10,000 cats).  It can be identified as vomiting, diarrhea, respiratory distress, facial itching or swelling, and collapse. Often, this type of reaction can be adequately controlled with the use of antihistimines or steroid medications or a different vaccine formulation.

Vaccine-associated sarcomas are a known problem, but the exact reasons that they form is not yet understood. Many suggest that the development of these tumors may result from inflammation or trauma at the injection site. Feline injection-site sarcomas (FISS) are rare, occurring in fewer than one out of every 10,000-30,000 cats, but the severity of this side effect is frightening to many people. In recent years, many precautions have been taken to minimize the trauma and inflammation caused by vaccination, and the frequency of this problem has significantly decreased. At Exclusively Cats, we give vaccinations in insulin syringes, to decrease the needle trauma associated with vaccination. We allow the vaccines to warm to room temperature before giving them, and we choose to use primarily non-adjuvanted vaccines. In addition, we vaccinate cats only as frequently as medically necessary to provide immunity, and we avoid vaccinating cats that have other compromising health issues (which is why we do not administer vaccinations without a physical exam). In addition, we use recommended vaccination sites low on the leg so that, in the eventuality that a sarcoma does develop, the limb can be amputated if necessary, to prevent the spread of the tumor to the rest of the body and prolong the life of your cat.

More about the diseases that we vaccinate for:
Feline Panleukopenia (also known as Feline Distemper, Feline Parvo, or Infectious Enteritis)
Feline Leukemia
(more to come...)

Monday, August 11, 2014

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disaster: Part 4: Preparing a Disaster Kit and a First Aid Kit for your Pet




Planning a disaster preparedness kit for your pet
  • One to two-week supply of food. Store it in a water-tight, rodent-proof container and rotate it every three months to keep it fresh. If you use canned food, include a spare can opener and a spoon.
  • One to two-week supply of fresh water. If officials declare your household water unfit to drink, it’s also unsafe for your pets. Follow American Red Cross guidelines for storing emergency water for your family and your pets.
  • Medication. If your animal takes medication, a replacement supply may not be easily available following a disaster. Make sure to include dosing instructions and refill information for your pharmacy or veterinary hospital
  • Copies of vaccination records and/or medical records in a waterproof sleeve (a rabies certificate is extremely important), and information about any special needs for your pet
  • Photographs of you with your pets to prove ownership
  • Photographs of your pets in case you need to make "lost pet" fliers
  • Emergency Contact list  (Veternarian, Emergency Vet, local pet-friendly hotels, and a poison-control center or hotline such as the ASPCA poison-control center, which can be reached at 1-800-426-4435). It is a good idea to include directions to these places as well.
  • Pet first aid kit and book
  • Temporary ID tags. If you've evacuated, use this to record your temporary contact information and/or the phone number of an unaffected friend or relative.
  • One secure carrier for each pet. Carriers should be large enough to allow your pet to stand comfortably, turn around, and lie down. Your pet may need to remain in the carrier for several hours at a time. If you have multiple animals to transport, you can use an EvacSak, which is
    easy to store and use for transport, but if your pet needs to be contained for several hours, a carrier is a better choice. In an emergency where time is of the essence, a pillowcase will do for short periods of management, if nothing else will suffice.
  • Favorite toy, treats, beds, blankets - small creature comforts to help de-stress your pet
  • Small litterbox, litter scoop and litter
  • Paper towels, pee pads, pet cleaner
  • Garbage bags
  • Roll of tape and permanent marker
  • Flashlight with spare batteries
  • Radio and spare batteries

What should be in your pet's First Aid Kit? Most of the items in a pet first aid kit can also be found in First Aid kits geared towards humans. It is a good idea to bring along a First Aid kit if you are traveling with your pet. Assemble the following in a zippered tote bag or plastic box. A fishing tackle box might do nicely!


Activated charcoal
Adhesive tape - do not use Band-Aids on pets! 1/2 - 1" tape is a good size for cats
Anti-diarrheal medication
Antibiotic ointment for wounds (neomycin, polymixin B, bacitracin)
Antibiotic ointment for eyes
Baby Wipes
Bandage scissors
Bandage tape
Betadine (povidone-iodine)
Blanket - foil emergency blanket
Chlorhexidine scrub and solution
Clippers for grooming - battery operated
Corn syrup (Karo) for hypoglycemia
Cotton balls and/or swabs
Cotton bandage rolls
Dawn dish soap
Ear cleaning solution
Elastic bandage rolls (such as VetWrap or Coflex) For cats, we are fond of 1.5". Do not wrap this too tight; preferably, loosen it from the roll, then wrap with it, just tight enough to stay on.
Eye rinse - sterile (not contact lens solution)
Flea and tick prevention medication
Gauze pads and rolls (2")
Hydrogen peroxide 3%
Ice pack
Large tongue depressors or ice cream sticks (can be used as splints)
Isopropyl Alcohol or alcohol wipes
Latex or nitrile gloves
Measuring spoons
Muzzle - this may be necessary if your pet becomes injured and is in extreme pain, but do not use it if your pet is vomiting, choking, coughing or otherwise having difficulty breathing
Medication - 2 week supply
Nail clippers
Needle-nosed pliers
Non-absorbent wound pads, Telfa or other
Pedialyte
Penlight
Saline solution for rinsing wounds
Sterile lubricant/petroleum jelly
Styptic powder
Small syringes and eye-droppers
Thermometer (digital) - your cat's rectal temperature should be between 99.9-102.5
Tourniquet
Towel and washcloth
Tweezers

You can also purchase pre-assembled Pet First Aid Kits at many Pet Stores and online retailers.



Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment. Please consult with a medical professional before using any home remedies, or in any case where poisoning is suspected. Do not induce vomiting in a suspected poisoning case unless instructed to do so by your veterinarian or the Pet Poison Helpline - in some cases, vomiting can cause additional trauma and complications.

There are many pet first aid books that you can purchase for reference, as well. This one is produced by the Red Cross.

Monday, August 4, 2014

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disasters: Part 3: After the Emergency


photo by Stan Carroll
In honor of Pet Safety Month, here are some suggestions to help you weather an emergency with your pet.

3) AFTER THE EMERGENCY

A snake takes refuge during a flood
Depending on the level of damage to your area, your home may be a very different place after the emergency is over, and it may be hard for your pets to adjust.

  •  Keep your pets confined indoors or out with leashes only. Depending on the type of emergency, familiar landmarks and smells might be gone, and your pet could be disoriented. If pets are allowed to roam loose during this period, they could easily get lost.
  • Keep cats in carriers inside the house, until you have finished assessing the damage. If there are broken windows or loose doors, your pet could escape your home.
  • Be patient with your pets after a disaster. Most pets thrive on routine, so try to return to a normal daily schedule as soon as possible. High levels of stress can cause behavior problems. Do your cats tend to fight after one cat visits the veterinarian? Cats especially depend on scent to identify familiar people and animals as well as places. Your cats may not get along after the disaster for the period of time that it takes to re-establish the "family scent". In some cases, a traumatic event can cause two cats that get along very well to completely disassociate with each other. Prepare for the fact that your terrified cats may be too stressed to be re-introduced right away, and let them re-acclimate to each other gradually. If these problems persist, or if your pet seems to be having any health problems, talk to your veterinarian. 
  • If there has been a flood, make sure to check your house and yard for wild animals that may have taken refuge there. Stressed, displaced and injured wildlife can pose a threat to you and your pet.

Friday, August 1, 2014

Meet Mr. August!



Orange and black tabby toyger | | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI

SAMMY


Age: 3 years
Sammy the toyger at meal time with his toy | | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MIGender: Neutered Male
Weight: 10.7 pounds - Great body condition!
Demeanor at the vet: Very sweet boy!

Here are some fun facts about Mr August:  
--Sammy is our 1st purebred cat and he is a Toyger. 
--He LOVES to play, play, play. His favorite toy is “Da Bird”. He likes to catch his “prey” and puts the feather toy or mouse in his food dish before he starts eating.
Sammy the toyger playing || Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI--The picture in the calendar is one of the few times he accepted having the harness and leash on him. The 1st time we put it on him he fell over like it weighed 500 lbs - He is so dramatic!  I thought it was safe to go in the house for a few seconds and I came back outside and he was in the tree!  
Sammy the toyger and his best buddy Roo || Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI 
--He also loves to supervise when we are taking a shower…he talks and talks and paws and paws on the door. As soon as the door is opened he prances in and continues to chat away - he is quite vocal.
--He HATES the car! He cried the entire 6 hours it took for us to drive him home from the breeder when he was only 3 lbs and 12 weeks old. He still cries loudly when he has to go to the vet. 
--He absolutely loves his brother Roo and wants to sleep with him wherever that might be; if Roo moves, Sammy moves. He is a great addition to our home and we love him to pieces.