Feline Allergies: Why is my cat grooming so much?

What are allergies, and how do they affect cats?

One of the most common reasons that a cat may seem itchy, twitchy or groom excessively is allergies.  In the allergic state, the cat's immune system "overreacts" to foreign substances (allergens or antigens) to which it is exposed.  Those overreactions are manifested in three ways.  The most common is itching of the skin, either localized (one area) or generalized (all over the cat).  Another manifestation involves the respiratory system and may result in coughing, sneezing, and/or wheezing.  Sometimes, there may be an associated nasal or ocular (eye) discharge.  The third manifestation involves the digestive system, resulting in vomiting or diarrhea.

Severe skin allergies are easy to recognize - some cats develop bare spots on their sides, legs, or abdomen where they lick and chew at their fur. Other cats may develop severe sores or wounds where they cause trauma to themselves. However, it can be hard to recognize the signs of a mild allergy. These cats may twitch their skin or become irritated when petted, or they may lick or chew at the air or nearby objects when they are scratched at the base of the tail. These are itchy cats, even if no one ever observes them grooming excessively.

 If you search "cat licking air" on YouTube, you will find videos of hundreds of itchy cats.

Skin allergies can take a long time to resolve, even when they are not this severe

 
In some cats, the itchiness eventually becomes so bad that in addition to wounding themselves, the cats develop a secondary bacterial skin infection. This little 2 year old presented to us for a second opinion after 6 months of treatment elsewhere. She was treated with steroids and antibiotics, and after another 5 months, she was doing really well. Now she is maintained on periodic low doses of steroids to prevent this problem from becoming so severe in the future.

Aren't there several types of allergies?

There are four known types of allergies in the cat: contact, flea, food, and inhalant.  Each of these has some common expressions in cats, and each has some unique features.

Contact Allergy

Contact allergies are the least common of the four types of allergies.  They result in a local reaction on the skin. Examples of contact allergy include reactions to flea collars or to types of bedding, such as wool.  If the cat is allergic to those, there will be skin irritation and itching at the points of contact.  Removal of the contact irritant solves the problem.  However, identifying the allergen can require some detective work.

 Flea Allergy

Typical flea allergy scabs on the back of a cat's neck

Flea allergy is common in cats.  A normal cat experiences only minor irritation in response to flea bites, often without any itching.  Many times when we find fleas on a cat, the people he lives with are surprised because the cat has not shown any sign of irritation  or discomfort. The flea allergic cat, on the other hand, has a severe, itch-producing reaction when the flea's saliva is deposited in the skin.  Just one bite causes such intense itching that the cat may severely scratch or chew itself, leading to the removal of large amounts of hair.  There will often be open sores or scabs on the skin, allowing a secondary bacterial infection to begin.  The area most commonly involved is over the rump (just in front of the tail).  In addition, the cat may have numerous, small scabs around the head and neck.  These scabs are called miliary lesions, a term which was coined because the scabs look like millet seeds. These areas are most commonly affected because they are the areas the cat has the most difficulty clearing of fleas.

The most important treatment for flea allergy is to get the cat away from all fleas.  Therefore, strict flea control is the backbone of successful treatment.  Unfortunately, this is not always possible in warm and humid climates, where a new population of fleas can hatch out every 14-21 days.  When strict flea control is not possible, injections of corticosteroids (or "cortisone" or "steroids") can be used to block the allergic reaction and give relief.  This is often a necessary part of dealing with flea allergies.  Fortunately, cats are more resistant to the side-effects of steroids than other species.  If a secondary bacterial infection occurs, appropriate antibiotics must be used.  

Sometimes, one cat in the home may have a severe flea reaction and another will seem completely unaffected. However, it is important to treat ALL animals in the household (dogs, too!) because otherwise, the fleas will continue to reproduce on the untreated pets in the home.

Inhalant Allergy

The most common type of allergy is the inhalant type, or atopy.  Cats may be allergic to all of the same inhaled allergens that affect us.  These include tree pollens (cedar, ash, oak, etc.), grass pollens (especially Bermuda), weed pollens (ragweed, etc.), molds, mildew, and the house dust mite.  Many of these allergies occur seasonally, such as ragweed, cedar, and grass pollens.  However, others are with us all the time, such as molds, mildew, and house dust mites.  When humans inhale these allergens, we express the allergy as a respiratory problem; it is sometimes called "hay fever."  The cat's reaction, however, usually produces severe, generalized itching.  In fact, the most common cause of itching in the cat is inhalant allergy.

Some cats rub their faces, others lick parts of torso or limbs

Most cats that have inhalant allergy react to several allergens.  If the number is small and they are the seasonal type, itching may last for just a few weeks at a time during one or two periods of the year.  If the number of allergens is large or they are they are present year-round, the cat may itch constantly. 

Treatment depends largely on the length of the cat's allergy season.  It involves two approaches.  Steroids will dramatically block the allergic reaction in most cases.  These may be given orally or by injection, depending on the circumstances.  As stated previously, the side effects of steroids are much less common in cats than in people.  If steroids are appropriate for your cat, you will be instructed in their proper use.

A medication called Atopica (cyclosporine) can be used to target and suppress the activity of certain cells (such as eosinophils and mast cells) in the immune system that are involved in inflammation. Inflammation is what causes the irritation and itching sensation due to allergies. Often this medication can be used to help reduce the dose of steroid that is required to treat the allergy, and in some cases, it can control the allergic reaction on its own.

Another useful treatment for allergies is a product called Dermoscent. This topical application is a synergistic blend of 10 essential oils that are rich in essential fatty acids and Vitamin E that has been shown to increase fur shine and decrease dandruff and hair loss. Similarly to Atopica, Dermoscent can help decrease the need for steroid use in allergic cats and can sometimes eventually become the sole treatment for the problem, eliminating the need for oral medications altogether. However, in most cats, steroid and/or cyclosporine treatment may be necessary initially to counter severe inflammation and give the Dermoscent time to work.

Some cats are helped considerably by a hypoallergenic shampoo.  It has been demonstrated that some allergens may be absorbed through the skin.  Frequent bathing is thought to reduce the amount of antigen exposure through this route.  In addition to removing surface antigen, bathing alone will provide some temporary relief from itching and may allow the use of a lower dose of steroids.  Antihistamines are usually of little value in the cat but can be tried. 

Allergy testing can be done intradermally or with a simple blood draw

The second major form of allergy treatment is desensitization with specific antigen injections (or "allergy shots").  Once the specific sources of allergy are identified, very small amounts of the antigen are injected weekly.  This is all in an attempt to reprogram the body's immune system.  It is hoped that as time passes, the immune system will become less reactive to the problem-causing allergens.  If desensitization appears to help the cat, injections will continue for several years.  For most cats, a realistic goal is for the itching to be significantly reduced in severity; in some cats, itching may completely resolve.  Generally, steroids are not used with this treatment protocol.  This therapeutic approach is recommended for the middle-aged or older cat that has year round itching caused by inhalant allergy.  This approach is not successful with food allergy.

Although desensitization is the ideal way to treat inhalant allergy, it does have some drawbacks and may not be the best choice in certain circumstances and for these reasons: 

1.        Cost: This is the most expensive form of treatment. 

2.        Age of Patient: Because many cats develop additional allergies as they get older, young cats may need to be retested 1-3 years later.

3.        Success Rate: About 50% of cats will have an excellent response.  About 25% get partial to good response.  About 25% get little or no response.  The same statistics are true for people undergoing desensitization.

4.        Food Allergies: Although tests for food allergy are available, the reliability of the test is so low that it is not recommended at this time.  A food trial remains the best diagnostic test for food allergy.

5.        Time of Response: The time until apparent response may be 2-5 months, or longer. 

6.        Interference from steroids: Cats must not receive oral steroids for 2 weeks or injectable steroids for 6 weeks prior to testing; these drugs will interfere with the test results.

Food Allergy

Allergic cats are usually affected by proteins sources like chicken and beef

Cats are not likely to be born with food allergies.  More commonly, they develop allergies to food products they have eaten for a long time.  The allergy most frequently develops in response to the protein component of the food; for example, beef, pork, chicken, or turkey.  Food allergy may produce any of the clinical signs previously discussed, including itching, digestive disorders, and respiratory distress.  We recommend testing for food allergy when the clinical signs have been present for several months, when the cat has a poor response to steroids, or when a very young cat itches without other apparent causes of allergy.  Testing is done with a special hypoallergenic diet.  Because it takes at least 8 weeks for all other food products to get out of the system, the cat must eat the special diet exclusively for 8-12 weeks (or more).  If positive response occurs, you will be instructed on how to proceed.  If the diet is not fed exclusively, it will not be a meaningful test.  We cannot overemphasize this.  If any type of table food, treats or vitamins are given, these must be discontinued during the testing period. 

Because cats that are being tested for inhalant allergy generally itch year round, a food allergy dietary test can be performed while the inhalant test and antigen preparation are occurring. 

Whatever the cause of your cat's allergy symptoms, for most cats, therapy of some kind will be required for the rest of their life. For some cats, the treatments may be given seasonally, but for most cats, the treatment must continue year-round, but at the lowest effective dose.

Why does my cat have grains of rice in its fur? - Tapeworm infection in Cats

A single tapeworm egg in a stool sample

TAPEWORM INFECTION

What are tapeworms?

Tapeworm segments in the fir under a cat's tail

The most common tapeworm of cats (and dogs) is called Dipylidium caninum.  This parasite attaches to the small intestinal wall by hook-like mouthparts.  Adult tapeworms may reach 8 inches (20 cm) in length.  The adult worm is actually made up of many small segments about 1/8 inch (3 mm) long.  As the tail end of the worm matures, the terminal segments break off and pass into the stool.  Occasionally, the mobile segments can be seen crawling near the anus or on the surface of a fresh bowel movement.  These segments look like grains of rice and contain tapeworm eggs; the eggs are released into the environment when the segment dries.  The dried segments are small (about 1/16", or 2 mm), hard and golden in color.  These dried segments can sometimes be seen stuck to the hair  
around the cat's anus.

Cats may also become infected with another type of tapeworm called Taenia spp. that is acquired by eating rodents.

How did my cat get tapeworms?

First, Dipylidium tapeworms eggs must be swallowed by flea larvae (an immature stage of the flea).  Contact between flea larvae and tapeworm eggs is thought to occur most frequently in contaminated bedding or carpet.  The life cycle of the tapeworm cannot be completed unless the flea swallows tapeworm larvae.

Dipylidium egg packet

Next, the cat chews or licks its skin as a flea bites; the flea is then swallowed.  As the flea is digested within the cat’s intestine, the tapeworm hatches and anchors itself to the intestinal lining.

What kind of problems do tapeworms cause for the cat?

Several segments of a Taenia tapeworm

Tapeworms are not highly pathogenic (harmful) to your cat.  They may cause debilitation and weight loss when they occur in large numbers.  Sometimes, the cat will scoot or drag its anus across the ground or carpet because the segments are irritating to the skin in this area.  This behavior is much more common in dogs than cats.  The adult worm is generally not seen, but the white segments which break away from the tapeworm and pass outside the body rarely fail to get an owner's attention! 

Occasionally, a tapeworm will release its attachment in the intestines and move into the stomach.  This irritates the stomach, causing the cat to vomit the worm.  When this happens, a worm several inches in length will be seen.

How is tapeworm infection diagnosed?

Tapeworm infection is usually diagnosed when the white, mobile segments are seen crawling on your  Tapeworms are not usually detected by the routine fecal examination performed by the veterinarian.  Because of this, veterinarians depend on the owner to notify them of possible tapeworm infection in the cat.
cat or in the stool.

How are the tapeworms treated?

Treatment is simple and, fortunately, very effective.  A drug which kills tapeworms is given, either orally or by injection.  It causes the tapeworm to dissolve within the intestines.  Since the worm is usually digested before it passes, it is not visible in your cat's stool.  These drugs should not cause vomiting, diarrhea, or any other adverse side-effects.

Control of fleas is very important in the management and prevention of tapeworm infection.  Flea control involves treatment of your cat, the indoor environment and the outdoor environment where the cat resides.  If the cat lives in a flea-infested environment, reinfection with tapeworms may occur in as little as two weeks.  Because the medication which treats tapeworm infection is so effective, return of the tapeworms is almost always due to reinfection from the environment.

How do I tell tapeworms from pinworms?

Tapeworms and pinworms look very similar.  However, contrary to popular belief, pinworms do not infect cats or dogs.  Any worm segments seen associated with cats are due to tapeworms.  Children who get pinworms do not get them from cats or dogs.

Are feline tapeworms infectious to people?

Dipylidium Lifecycle

Yes, although infection is not common or likely.  A flea must be ingested for humans to become infected with the most common tapeworm of cats.  Most reported cases have involved children.  The most effective way to prevent human infection is through aggressive, thorough flea control.  The risk for infection with this tapeworm in humans is quite small but does exist. Risk for human infection with Taenia tapeworms is extremely unlikely, since it is very difficult to accidentally eat a rodent!

Echinococcus Lifecycle

Another less common group of tapeworms, called Echinococcus, is of particular concern as a threat to human health.  These tapeworms cause very serious disease when humans become infected.  This parasite is harder to diagnose than the Dipylidium tapeworm caused by fleas because the segments are small and not readily seen.  Hunters  and trappers in the north central United States and south central Canada may be at risk for infection by this worm if strict hygiene is not observed. Foxes and coyotes (and the wild rodents upon which they prey) are important in the life cycle of this parasite.  Dogs and cats may also become infected if they eat rodents carrying the parasite.  When eggs of Echinococcus are passed in the feces of the dog and cat, humans are at risk for infection.  Free-roaming cats and dogs may need to be periodically treated with tapeworm medication.  Rodent control and good hygiene are important in  preventing the spread of this disease to humans.  As with the more common tapeworm, infection with Echinococcus is infrequent but possible.

Taenia lifecycle

What can be done to control tapeworm infection in cats and to prevent human infection?

1.         Effective flea control is important.

2.        Prompt deworming should be given when parasites are detected; periodic deworming may be  appropriate for pets at high risk for reinfection, such as cats that hunt or venture outside.

3.         All pet feces should be disposed of promptly, especially in yards, playgrounds, and public parks. Strict hygiene is important, especially for children.  Do not allow children to play in potentially contaminated environments.

Raising Orphaned Kittens Part 3: When to call the Veterinarian

One of the hardest parts about fostering orphaned kittens is that kittens can easily get sick. Sick kittens should be dealt with quickly, because they are small and fragile, especially if they have no mother cat.


If one or more of your orphans becomes sick, you should call a veterinarian and discuss the problem. The veterinarian may or may not advise you to bring the kitten in.

At home, you can take your kitten's temperature, if you feel comfortable doing so. You will need a regular thermometer (preferably one that you will not want to use again!) and some KY jelly.  Put some KY on the tip of the thermometer and stick just the tip into the kitten's anus. The kitten will likely protest. Hold the thermometer there until the thermometer beeps (or for about a minute if it is a mercury thermometer). If the kitten's temperature is over 103 or under 99, it is important to call the veterinarian.

Abnormal signs to watch for in a kitten:

• Discharge from the eyes or nose.
• Poor appetite
• Lethargy (lack of energy)
• Diarrhea 
• Vomiting
• Weight loss or failure to gain weight
• Coughing or sneezing

Emergencies requiring immediate veterinary attention

• Continuous diarrhea
• Continuous vomiting
• Bleeding of any kind 
• Any trauma: hit by a car, dropped, limping, stepped on, unconscious.
• Difficulty breathing.
• A kitten that does not respond or that hasn't eaten for more than a day.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:

-Watch closely for respiratory signs.  Kittens have weak immune systems, especially when raised away from their mother, as they are not getting any antibodies from their mother. They can easily and quickly succumb to disease and infection if not treated appropriately. 

-Aspiration pneumonia is a concern for bottle-fed kittens; be careful when feeding and give them only what they can swallow at one time. Make sure to feed them in an upright position to decrease risk. 

-Watch stool and urine output closely, and observe for any signs of constipation from the milk formula. Some formulas can increase the risk of diarrhea and some can increase the risk of constipation - either one can be a significant issue for tiny kittens.

-Watch for lethargy/or inappetance.

-If you ever have any questions about kittens’ health please call your veterinarian.

Diarrhea and parasites of the digestive tract
Diarrhea is common in kittens and can have many causes including: parasites, viruses, bacteria, food changes, stress, overfeeding. Because kittens can become dehydrated very quickly, make sure to discuss your kitten's diarrhea with your veterinarian sooner rather than later. If the diarrhea is severe, lasts more than 3 or 4 feedings, or contains blood or obvious parasites, you should call a veterinarian and bring in as much as possible of the feces in a Ziploc bag.

Several causes of diarrhea in kittens involve protozoan (single-celled) parasites, such as coccidia, giardia, and tritrichomonas.  These parasites are common in kittens, and occasionally found in adults.  They are not generally treated with common de-wormers, but antibiotics. For diagnosis of these parasites, especially giardia and tritrichomonas, extremely fresh stool is best for diagnosis.

Most large intestinal worms do not cause diarrhea, but can be very debilitating to kittens in large numbers. Sometimes, if the numbers are large enough, or many worms are dying, the dead worms will pass in the stool. More often, the diagnosis for these parasites is by seeing the microscopic worm eggs in a stool sample. If you see spaghetti-like worms in the stool, you are seeing roundworms. These worms can come up in vomit or stool. The cysts of roundworms can persist for years in soil and be spread to other cats or human children, so it is important to deworm cats as directed by a veterinarian.

If you see rice-like worms on the stool or in the hair around your kittens' tails, you are seeing tapeworm segments. These rice-shaped pieces of the worms are mobile when they exit the body, so they may work their way off the stool or kitten and into the environment. They are not infective at this stage. They are spread by fleas or by eating rodents. Tapeworms do not generally cause diarrhea, but it is advisable to treat your kitten for tapeworms, especially if you know that he has had fleas in the past.

Several types of bacteria, including Clostridium, are potential causes of diarrhea in kittens, and all require microscopic examination, bacterial culture, or PCR testing for diagnosis. These are among the fecal pathogens that can be spread to people if adequate hygiene is not observed after handling sick kittens or litterboxes. Most bacteria respond quickly to antibiotics prescribed by a veterinarian.

Finally, there are a number of viral causes of diarrhea, with feline distemper (also known as panleukopenia or feline parvo virus) being the most devastating. If distemper is suspected, seek veterinary care immediately. Treatment for distemper involves aggressive nutritional supplementation and hospitalization, and you may have a number of kittens die if an entire litter is exposed.This is one of the reasons that you should make sure any older cats in your household are up to date with their annual vaccinations before bringing a kitten into the home. Thoroughly disinfect anything that has been exposed to the sick kittens with a bleach solution.

Ear mite

Ear Mites
Ear mites are tiny arthropod parasites which live in the ear canal. Common signs of ear mites are ears full of coffee-ground-like crumbling debris, itchy ears, head shaking.In very large infestations, you may actually see the pinpoint white mites moving in the debris in the ear. They are highly contagious, but easily treated.

Failure to thrive
Once in a while, one or more kittens in a litter that were healthy and vigorous at birth will begin to "fade" after a week or two of life. They will stop growing, begin to lose weight, stop nursing and crawling. They may cry continuously and lose the ability to stay upright. The mother cat may push them out of the nest, where they often chill and starve to death. Kittens fade very quickly - they will not last 48 hours without veterinary care, and probably will not recover even with intensive care.
There is no clear cause or reason for this condition - it has been linked to birth defects, environmental stress and infectious disease. Early veterinary treatment is imperative, but even with tube feeding, rehydration and monitoring, many, if not most fading kittens will die.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV) and Feline immunodeficiency (FIV)
FeLV and FIV are retroviruses cats get from other cats (or their moms). Testing for disease can help you make the decision whether to foster a kitten, or whether to add kittens to a litter or keep them in isolation. It is often a good idea to have positive test results confirmed.

In the early stages of FeLV, infected cats appear healthy but over months to years, they develop severe, ultimately fatal disease. In very young kittens, it is advisable to test at least twice as some kittens can be transiently positive, or falsely negative.

On the other hand, testing for FIV is more difficult until after a kitten is four months old. The good news about FIV is that it is much harder to transmit than FeLV, and cats that have been infected with FIV can live long, healthy lives, often not experiencing detrimental disease symptoms until the age of 8 years or more.

A flea on a flea comb

Fleas
Fleas are insects that love to feed on kittens. Each flea only consumes a small amount of blood, and most adult cats are relatively unaffected by large flea infestations, however fleas commonly attack in large numbers and an infestation in a kitten can lead to severe anemia and even death. It is essential that your home be free of fleas before bringing home a small kitten.

If your foster kitten enters your home with fleas, it is important to remove them without causing harm.  Fleas can be transported from the kittens isolated in one area to the main part of the house on clothing, shoes, etc. Therefore, it is also important to treat any other animals in the home with monthly flea prevention or a stray flea, flea egg, pupa or larva may cause an infestation in your house - any unprotected animal in the house can then become a reservoir for the infestation.

Check with your veterinarian before applying any commercial flea products to your kitten, as some flea medications can be harmful to cats. One safe way to remove fleas from very young kittens (less than 6 - 8 weeks) is daily flea combing. Keep a jar of soapy water near you to dip the comb into as it comes off the cat full of fleas. Try not to moisten the kitten too much, and make sure to thoroughly dry your kittens after you are done combing.

If the Kitten is 4 Weeks old and over two pounds in weight, Capstar can be given orally up to once a day to kill adult fleas. This product starts to work within 30 minutes and is effective against adult fleas for 4-6 hours. It does not have any affect on, eggs, larva, or other adult fleas in the kittens environment.

If the kitten is 6 weeks old or older, you can use topical monthly applications available from a veterinarian. Despite your best efforts at flea control, you should plan to treat the kittens for a minimum of 90 days to ensure that all the fleas are out of the household. For more information about flea control, please refer to our blog article "Fighting Fleas Fairly...For Good!"

Upper respiratory tract infection (URI)
Upper respiratory infections are very common in kittens, especially if they have been through a shelter situation and exposed to other cats. These infections are caused by airborne viruses and bacteria which are contagious and spread very quickly.

Signs of URI to watch out for:

• Sneezing and discharge from eyes or nose
• Congested breathing
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Dehydration

Vomiting
If your kitten is vomiting, it is possible that the kitten is eating his meals too quickly. You should watch him when he eats and not allow him to eat too much too quickly. If your kitten vomits 2-3 times in a row, it should see a veterinarian. Vomiting can be another sign of distemper in kittens, so it should not be taken lightly.

Indoor cats can get fleas, too!

Most people know that outdoor cats are at risk for picking up fleas - especially those cats that like to lounge in the shade under bushes where other animals spend their time. But, did you know that even indoor cats can get fleas?

Sometimes, the fleas are brought into the house by unsuspecting owners, on pants legs, on shoes, or other outdoor items. Most times, it is not the adult flea that comes inside. They have a large warm food source, already, why would they want to jump off into the great unknown and leave a good thing behind? Instead, the female flea is almost constantly laying eggs, which roll off the host - a rabbit, a squirrel, a stray cat - and into the dirt. There, the eggs can hatch, and the flea larvae can eat and grow under the bush until it is time to

Flea larvae are only a little thicker than a cat hair. Under the microscope, we can see this larva has eaten some flea dirt (adult flea feces - digested blood) which gives it a reddish color.

form the pupal cocoon. Once the pupa stage is reached, the flea is pretty much indestructible. No amount of pesticide is going to hurt that cocoon. After a period of time, that cocoons can be picked up by a human and transported inside. Once inside, when conditions are right, the adult fleas hatch and find a food source - your pampered indoor pet.

Other ways that an indoor cat can get fleas is from visitors to the home - with or without their own pets. We often find out that just before a cat starts scratching, Aunt Sally might have visited along with her Jack Russell Terrier, or maybe the kids just got home from visiting Grandpa Frank and his indoor/outdoor cat Puma. Or, maybe everyone just got back from camping in the Blue Ridge Mountains and the cats were rolling around in the luggage.

Sometimes, your cat will show signs of itchiness such as scratching or excessive grooming if he or she is bothered by the fleas. In cases where cats actually have an allergy to flea saliva, cats will develop hair loss and/or sores in a classic pattern - usually around the base of the tail and the neck. Other signs of fleas are more subtle. Your cat may be noticeably spending more time up off the floor, may be more easily irritated than usual or may have no signs of discomfort at all.

To check for fleas, use a fine-toothed comb and comb your cat from neck to tail, concentrating under the chin and near the base of the tail. Afterwards, check the comb for fleas or flea dirt. If you find a flea, you win! Well, not really, but at least you will know that your cat has fleas. Unfortunately, because cats are such good groomers, just because you don't find fleas, it doesn't mean they're not there. Sometimes, it can be very difficult to catch them in a flea comb - they're fast, and they're flat, and they know how to hide!

A cat flea caught in a flea comb. Look fast - he's going to jump!

Flea dirt is another indicator of the presence of fleas. Flea dirt, or flea feces, can be recognized as tiny black specks about the thickness of a hair, often curved, that turn red when water is added and they are rubbed on a white towel. If you find flea dirt, you have fleas, even if you don't find the naughty critter himself. If a flea has been on your cat long enough to produce flea dirt, he's been there a while! If you find a flea but no dirt, then it's likely the flea hasn't been around long.

The flea life cycle

The best way to be certain that fleas never enter your home is to make sure that your cat is receiving a monthly flea prevention medication along with his or her heartworm prevention. We usually recommend the all-in-one product Revolution because it also prevents heartworm infections and has some additional effectiveness against ear and skin mites, ticks and some intestinal parasites. Advantage Multi is another good topical product that is similar. However, if your cat is already taking Heartgard heartworm prevention, you may want to choose Frontline or Advantage instead.

If you already have noticed a flea problem, make sure to read our tips on fighting fleas. It is important to
remember that if you see adults fleas on your cat, you are only seeing 5% of the problem, so one application of flea preventive is never enough to solve the problem. Your best weapons against fleas are prevention and patience. 

New Kitten FAQ

KITTENS: RECOMMENDATIONS FOR NEW OWNERS

We would like to congratulate you on the acquisition on your new kitten.  Owning a cat can be an extremely rewarding experience, but it also carries with it quite a bit of responsibility.  We hope this document will give you the information needed to make some good decisions regarding your kitten.

First let us say that we are grateful that you have chosen us to help you with your kitten's health care.  If you have questions concerning any subject related to your kitten's health, please feel free to call our hospital.  Either one of the technicians or one of the doctors will be happy to help you.

How should I introduce my new kitten to its new environment?

A cat is naturally inclined to investigate its new surroundings.  At first, you should limit the cat's area of exploration so that these natural tendencies do not create an unmanageable situation.  After confining the cat to one room for the first few days, you should slowly allow access to other areas of the home. 

What type of playing should I expect from a kitten?

Kittens love to play with just about ANYTHING! 

Stimulating play is important during the first week.  Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviors in kittens and have an important role in proper muscular development.  If given a sufficient outlet for these behaviors with toys, your kitten will be less likely to use family members for these activities.  The best toys are light weight and movable.  These include wads of paper and small balls.  Kittens should always be supervised when playing with string or ribbons to avoid swallowing them.  Any other toy that is small enough to be swallowed should also be avoided. 

Can I discipline a kitten?

Disciplining a young kitten may be necessary if his or her behavior threatens people or property, but harsh punishment should be avoided.  Hand clapping and using shaker cans or horns can be intimidating enough to inhibit undesirable behavior.  However, remote punishment is preferred.  Remote punishment consists of using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop the problem behavior.  Examples include using spray bottles, throwing objects in the direction of the kitten to startle (but not hit) her,  and making loud noises.  Remote punishment is preferred because the kitten associates punishment with the undesirable act and not with you.

When should my kitten be vaccinated?

There are many diseases that are fatal to cats.  Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by the use of very effective vaccines.  In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections.  Ideally, they are given at about 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary somewhat depending on several factors. 

The routine vaccination schedule will protect your kitten from five diseases: distemper, three respiratory organisms, and rabies.  The first four are included in a combination vaccine that is given at 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks old.  Rabies vaccine is given at 12 or 16 weeks of age.  Leukemia vaccine is necessary if your cat does or will go outside or if you have another cat that goes in and out since this deadly disease is transmitted by contact with other cats, especially when fighting occurs.  A vaccine is also available for protection against feline infectious peritonitis (FIP); this vaccine is probably not necessary for all cats and is recommended in selected situations.

Why does my kitten need more than one vaccination for feline distemper, upper respiratory infections, and leukemia?

Kittens receive a temporary form of immunity through their mother's milk while nursing.  This immunity is in the form of proteins called antibodies.  For about 24-48 hours after birth, the kitten's intestine allows absorption of these antibodies directly into the blood stream.  This immunity is of benefit during the first few weeks of the kitten's life, but, at some point, this immunity fails and the kitten must be able to make its own long-lasting immunity.  Vaccinations are used for this purpose.  As long as the mother's antibodies are present, vaccinations do not "take."  The mother's antibodies will neutralize the vaccine so the vaccine does not get a chance to stimulate the kitten's immune system.

Many factors determine when the kitten will be able to respond to the vaccines.  These include the level of immunity in the mother cat, how much of the antibody has been absorbed, and the number of vaccines given the kitten.  Since we do not know when an individual kitten will lose the short-term immunity, we give a series of vaccinations.  We hope that at least two of these will fall in the window of time when the kitten has lost the immunity from its mother but has not yet been exposed to disease.  A single vaccination, even if effective, is not likely to stimulate the long-term immunity which is so important. 

Rabies vaccine is an exception to this, since one injection given at the proper time is enough to produce long-term immunity.

Do all kittens have worms?

This is a type of roundworm

Intestinal parasites are common in kittens.  Kittens can become infected with parasites almost as soon as they are born.  For example, the most important source of roundworm infection in kittens is the mother's milk.  The microscopic examination of a stool sample will usually help us to determine the presence of intestinal parasites.  We recommend this exam for all kittens, if we can get a stool sample.  Please bring one at your earliest convenience.  Even if we do not get a stool sample, we recommend the use of a deworming product that is safe and effective against several of the common worms of the cat.  It is important that deworming be repeated in about 3-4 weeks, because the deworming medication only kills the adult worms.  Within 3-4 weeks the larval stages will have become adults and will need to be treated.  Cats remain susceptible to reinfection with hookworms and roundworms.  Periodic stool analysis and/or deworming throughout the cat's life may be recommended for cats that go outdoors.

Tapeworm segments in a cat's fur

Tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasite of cats.  Kittens become infected with them when they swallow fleas because the eggs of the tapeworm live inside the flea.  When the cat chews or licks its skin as a flea bites, the flea may be swallowed.  The flea is digested within the cat's intestine; the tapeworm hatches and then anchors itself to the intestinal lining.  Therefore, exposure to fleas may result in a new infection, which can occur in as little as two weeks.  Cats may also become infected with tapeworms if they hunt and eat mice.

A lungworm under the microscope

Cats infected with tapeworms will pass small segments of the worms in their stool.  The segments are white in color and look like grains of rice.  They are about 1/8 inch (3 mm) long and may be seen crawling on the surface of the stool.  They may also stick to the hair under the tail.  If this occurs, the segments will dry out, shrink to about half their size, and become golden in color. 

Tapeworm segments do not pass every day or in every stool sample; therefore, inspection of several consecutive bowel movements may be needed to find them.  We may examine a stool sample in our office and not find them, then you may find them the next day.  If you find them at any time, please notify us so we may provide the appropriate drug for treatment.

Giardia organisms

Depending on a kitten's history, other common parasites that we look for are lung worms, heartworms, and infections with single-celled organisms like Giardia or Coccidia.

There are lots of choices of cat foods.  What should I feed my kitten?

Diet is extremely important in the growing months of a cat's life, and there are two important criteria that should be met in selecting food for your kitten.  We recommend a name-brand food made by a national cat food company (not a generic or local brand), and a form of food made for kittens.  This should be fed until your kitten is about 12 months of age.  In the United States, we recommend that you only buy food which has the AAFCO certification.  Usually, you can find this information very easily on the label.  AAFCO is an organization which oversees the entire pet food industry.  It does not endorse any particular food, but it will certify that the food has met the minimum requirements for nutrition.  Most of the commercial pet foods will have the AAFCO label.  Generic brands often do not have approval.

Feeding a dry, canned, or semi-moist form of cat food is acceptable. At Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, we recommend feeding a small amount of dry food and 3-6oz of canned food daily.  

Each type of food has advantages and disadvantages.  Dry food is definitely the most inexpensive.  It can be left in the cat's bowl at all times.  If given the choice, the average cat will eat a mouthful of food about 12-20 times per day.  The good brands of dry food are just as nutritious as the other forms. 

Semi-moist and canned foods are also acceptable.  However, both are considerably more expensive than dry food.  They often are more appealing to the cat's taste; however, they are not more nutritious.  If you feed a very tasty food, you are running the risk of creating a cat with a finicky appetite.  In addition, the semi-moist foods are high in sugar.

Table foods are not recommended.  Because the foods we eat are generally very tasty, cats will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced cat food.  If you choose to give your kitten table food, be sure that at least 90% of its diet is good quality commercial kitten food.

We enjoy a variety of things to eat in our diet.  However, most cats actually prefer not to change from one food to another unless they are trained to do so by the way you feed them.  Do not feel guilty if your cat is happy to just eat one food day after day, week after week.

Commercials for cat food can be very misleading.  If you watch carefully you will notice that commercials promote cat food on one basis, TASTE.  Nutrition is rarely mentioned.  Most of the "gourmet" foods are marketed to appeal to owners who want the best for their cats; however, they do not offer the cat any nutritional advantage over a good quality dry food, and they are far more expensive.  If your cat eats a gourmet food very long, he will probably not be happy with other foods.  If he needs a special diet due to a health problem later in life, he will be very unlikely to accept it.  Therefore, we do not encourage feeding gourmet cat foods.

How do I ensure that my kitten is well socialized?

The socialization period for cats is between 2 and 12 weeks of age.  During that time, the kitten is very impressionable to social influences.  If the kitten has good experiences with men, women, children, dogs, other cats, etc., she is likely to accept them throughout life.  If the experiences are absent or unpleasant, the kitten may become apprehensive or adverse to any of them.  Therefore, during the period of socialization, we encourage you to expose your cat to as many types of social events and influences as possible.

What can be done about fleas on my kitten?

Many of the flea control products that are safe on adult cats are not safe for kittens less than 4 months of age.  Fleas may not stay on your kitten all of the time.  Occasionally, they will jump off and seek another host.  Therefore, it is important to kill fleas on your new kitten before they become established in your house.  Be sure that any flea product you use is labeled safe for kittens.

This is "flea dirt" - a sure sign of fleas

Flea and tick dip is not recommended for kittens unless they are at least 4 months of age.  Remember, not all insecticides that can be used on dogs are safe for cats and kittens. 

In addition to flea treatments and preventives, it is important to control fleas in the environment by thoroughly vacuuming areas where the kitten spends time.

Can I trim my kitten's sharp toe nails?

Kittens have very sharp toe nails.  They can be trimmed with your regular finger nail clippers or with nail trimmers made for dogs and cats.  If you trim too much, you will cut into the quick of the nail which will bleed and be painful.  If this happens, neither you nor your cat will want to do this again.  Therefore, a few points are helpful:

1. If your cat has clear or white nails, you can see the pink of the quick through the nail so it is easy to avoid.

2. If your cat has black nails, you will not be able to see the quick so only cut 1/32" (1 mm) of the nail at a time until the cat begins to get sensitive.  The sensitivity will usually occur before you are into the blood vessel.  With black nails, it is likely that you will get too close on at least one nail.

3. If your cat has some clear and some black nails, use the average
     clear nail as a guide for cutting the black ones.

4. When cutting nails, use sharp trimmers.  Dull trimmers tend to crush the nail and cause pain even if you are not in the quick. 

5. You should always have styptic powder available.  This is sold in pet stores under several trade names, but it will be labeled for use in trimming nails.

What are ear mites?

Ear mite under the microscope

Ear mites are tiny insect-like parasites that live in the ear canal of cats (and dogs).  The most common sign of ear mite infection is scratching of the ears.  Sometimes the ears will appear dirty because of a black material in the ear canal; this material is sometimes shaken out.  The instrument we use for examining the ear canals, an otoscope, has the necessary magnification to allow us to see the mites.  Sometimes, we can find the mites by taking a small amount of the black material from the ear canal and examining it with a microscope.  Although they may leave the ear canals for short periods of time, they spend the vast majority of their lives within the protection of the ear canal.  Transmission generally requires direct ear-to-ear contact.  Ear mites are common in litters of kittens if their mother has ear mites.

Why should I have my female cat spayed?

Spaying or ovariohysterectomy is the removal of the uterus and the ovaries. It offers several advantages:

1.      The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of obnoxious behavior.  This can be quite annoying if your cat is kept indoors.  Male cats are attracted from blocks away and, in fact, seem to come out of the woodwork.  They seem to go over, around, and through many doors.  Your cat will have a heat period about every 2-3 weeks until she is bred.

2.      It has been proven that as the female dog gets older, there is a significant incidence of breast cancer and uterine infections if she has not been spayed.  Spaying before she has any heat periods will virtually eliminate the chances of either.  There is mounting evidence to believe that this is also true of cats.

3.      Spaying prevents unplanned litters of kittens.

4.      If you do not plan to breed your cat, we strongly recommend that she be spayed before her first heat period.  This can be done anytime after she is 5 months old.

Why should I have my male cat neutered?

Neutering or castration offers several advantages.  Male cats go through a significant personality change when they mature.  They become very possessive of their territory and mark it with their urine to ward off other cats.  The tom cat's urine develops a very strong odor that will be almost impossible to remove from your house.  They also try to constantly enlarge their territory which means one fight after another.  Fighting results in severe infections and abscesses and often engenders rage in your neighbors.  We strongly urge you to have your cat neutered at about 6 to 9 months of age.  If he should begin to spray his urine before that time, he should be neutered immediately.   The longer he sprays or fights, the less likely neutering will stop it.

If I choose to breed my cat, when should that be done?

If you plan to breed your cat, she should have at least one or two heat cycles first.  This allows her to mature physically and she will be a better mother without so much physical drain.  We do not recommend breeding after 5 years of age unless she has been bred prior to that.  Having her first litter after 5 years of age is more physically draining to her and increases the chances of her having problems during the pregnancy and/or delivery.  Once your cat has had her last litter, she should be spayed to prevent the female problems older cats have.

My kitten is already becoming destructive with her nails.  What can be done?

There are several options that can be considered: offering scratching posts, frequent nail clipping, nail shields, surgical declawing, and tendonectomy.

1.      Offering desirable scratching posts near the area where your kitten is scratching is an important tool in helping direct them to appropriate places to express this natural behavior. Many people make the mistake of sticking a scratching post in a far corner or offering scratching accessories that are too small or unstable. Cats need a post that allows them to stretch to their full length to scratch and sturdy enough not to fall over when they do so. You may need to experiment to learn if your cat is a vertical scratcher or a horizontal scratcher, and whether he or she prefers wood, sisal rope, carpet or cardboard as a scratching texture. There is a new product called FeliScratch that is a synthetic copy of the Feline Interdigital Pheromone that they excrete when they scratch. Applying this to a desirable scratching post will help your cat choose an acceptable place to scratch in your house. 

2.        The nails may be clipped according to the instructions above.  However, your cat's nails will regrow and become sharp again in about 4-7 days.  Therefore, to protect your property, it will  be necessary to clip them one to two times per week.

Soft nail caps protect the nails, but do keep them extended

3.      There are some commercially available products that are called nail caps.  These are generally made of smooth plastic and attach to the end of the nail with a special glue.  The nails are still present, but the caps prevent them from causing physical harm.  After 2-4 weeks the nails will grow enough that the caps will be shed.  At that time, you should be prepared to replace them. While soft nail caps protect your furniture from scratching, they do keep the nails in a state of extension, and can cause painful, severe problems if not changed regularly.

4.      Surgical declawing is the removal of the nail at its base.  This surgery is controversial, and you can read further about position of the AAFP on this surgery on their website. This is done under general anesthesia and with proper surgical techniques and adequate pain control, post-surgical discomfort should not exceed that of any other surgical procedure, especially when it is performed on a kitten. As with any surgical procedure, there can be complications and side effects. It should be noted that a declawed cat will not realize the claws are gone and will continue to "sharpen" the claws as normal on various objects, including scratching posts and furniture items. This surgery can be performed as early as 12 weeks of age or anytime thereafter.  It can also be done the same time as spaying or neutering.  Once declawed, your cat should always live indoors since the ability to defend itself is compromised.

5.      Tendonectomy is the surgical removal of a small part of the tendon on the bottom of each toe.  This tendon is needed to make the nail extend.  The cat retains its nails, but it cannot extend them for sharpening and scratching.  The disadvantage of this procedure is that the nails continue to grow and may grow into the pads.  Therefore, the nails should be clipped every 7 to 14 days.

You can also consider additional ways of modifying behavior, which may prevent the cat from scratching furniture in the house or being destructive.

This client information sheet is based on material written by Ernest E. Ward Jr., DVM.