Raising Orphaned Kittens Part 3: When to call the Veterinarian

One of the hardest parts about fostering orphaned kittens is that kittens can easily get sick. Sick kittens should be dealt with quickly, because they are small and fragile, especially if they have no mother cat.


If one or more of your orphans becomes sick, you should call a veterinarian and discuss the problem. The veterinarian may or may not advise you to bring the kitten in.

At home, you can take your kitten's temperature, if you feel comfortable doing so. You will need a regular thermometer (preferably one that you will not want to use again!) and some KY jelly.  Put some KY on the tip of the thermometer and stick just the tip into the kitten's anus. The kitten will likely protest. Hold the thermometer there until the thermometer beeps (or for about a minute if it is a mercury thermometer). If the kitten's temperature is over 103 or under 99, it is important to call the veterinarian.

Abnormal signs to watch for in a kitten:

• Discharge from the eyes or nose.
• Poor appetite
• Lethargy (lack of energy)
• Diarrhea 
• Vomiting
• Weight loss or failure to gain weight
• Coughing or sneezing

Emergencies requiring immediate veterinary attention

• Continuous diarrhea
• Continuous vomiting
• Bleeding of any kind 
• Any trauma: hit by a car, dropped, limping, stepped on, unconscious.
• Difficulty breathing.
• A kitten that does not respond or that hasn't eaten for more than a day.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:

-Watch closely for respiratory signs.  Kittens have weak immune systems, especially when raised away from their mother, as they are not getting any antibodies from their mother. They can easily and quickly succumb to disease and infection if not treated appropriately. 

-Aspiration pneumonia is a concern for bottle-fed kittens; be careful when feeding and give them only what they can swallow at one time. Make sure to feed them in an upright position to decrease risk. 

-Watch stool and urine output closely, and observe for any signs of constipation from the milk formula. Some formulas can increase the risk of diarrhea and some can increase the risk of constipation - either one can be a significant issue for tiny kittens.

-Watch for lethargy/or inappetance.

-If you ever have any questions about kittens’ health please call your veterinarian.

Diarrhea and parasites of the digestive tract
Diarrhea is common in kittens and can have many causes including: parasites, viruses, bacteria, food changes, stress, overfeeding. Because kittens can become dehydrated very quickly, make sure to discuss your kitten's diarrhea with your veterinarian sooner rather than later. If the diarrhea is severe, lasts more than 3 or 4 feedings, or contains blood or obvious parasites, you should call a veterinarian and bring in as much as possible of the feces in a Ziploc bag.

Several causes of diarrhea in kittens involve protozoan (single-celled) parasites, such as coccidia, giardia, and tritrichomonas.  These parasites are common in kittens, and occasionally found in adults.  They are not generally treated with common de-wormers, but antibiotics. For diagnosis of these parasites, especially giardia and tritrichomonas, extremely fresh stool is best for diagnosis.

Most large intestinal worms do not cause diarrhea, but can be very debilitating to kittens in large numbers. Sometimes, if the numbers are large enough, or many worms are dying, the dead worms will pass in the stool. More often, the diagnosis for these parasites is by seeing the microscopic worm eggs in a stool sample. If you see spaghetti-like worms in the stool, you are seeing roundworms. These worms can come up in vomit or stool. The cysts of roundworms can persist for years in soil and be spread to other cats or human children, so it is important to deworm cats as directed by a veterinarian.

If you see rice-like worms on the stool or in the hair around your kittens' tails, you are seeing tapeworm segments. These rice-shaped pieces of the worms are mobile when they exit the body, so they may work their way off the stool or kitten and into the environment. They are not infective at this stage. They are spread by fleas or by eating rodents. Tapeworms do not generally cause diarrhea, but it is advisable to treat your kitten for tapeworms, especially if you know that he has had fleas in the past.

Several types of bacteria, including Clostridium, are potential causes of diarrhea in kittens, and all require microscopic examination, bacterial culture, or PCR testing for diagnosis. These are among the fecal pathogens that can be spread to people if adequate hygiene is not observed after handling sick kittens or litterboxes. Most bacteria respond quickly to antibiotics prescribed by a veterinarian.

Finally, there are a number of viral causes of diarrhea, with feline distemper (also known as panleukopenia or feline parvo virus) being the most devastating. If distemper is suspected, seek veterinary care immediately. Treatment for distemper involves aggressive nutritional supplementation and hospitalization, and you may have a number of kittens die if an entire litter is exposed.This is one of the reasons that you should make sure any older cats in your household are up to date with their annual vaccinations before bringing a kitten into the home. Thoroughly disinfect anything that has been exposed to the sick kittens with a bleach solution.

Ear mite

Ear Mites
Ear mites are tiny arthropod parasites which live in the ear canal. Common signs of ear mites are ears full of coffee-ground-like crumbling debris, itchy ears, head shaking.In very large infestations, you may actually see the pinpoint white mites moving in the debris in the ear. They are highly contagious, but easily treated.

Failure to thrive
Once in a while, one or more kittens in a litter that were healthy and vigorous at birth will begin to "fade" after a week or two of life. They will stop growing, begin to lose weight, stop nursing and crawling. They may cry continuously and lose the ability to stay upright. The mother cat may push them out of the nest, where they often chill and starve to death. Kittens fade very quickly - they will not last 48 hours without veterinary care, and probably will not recover even with intensive care.
There is no clear cause or reason for this condition - it has been linked to birth defects, environmental stress and infectious disease. Early veterinary treatment is imperative, but even with tube feeding, rehydration and monitoring, many, if not most fading kittens will die.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV) and Feline immunodeficiency (FIV)
FeLV and FIV are retroviruses cats get from other cats (or their moms). Testing for disease can help you make the decision whether to foster a kitten, or whether to add kittens to a litter or keep them in isolation. It is often a good idea to have positive test results confirmed.

In the early stages of FeLV, infected cats appear healthy but over months to years, they develop severe, ultimately fatal disease. In very young kittens, it is advisable to test at least twice as some kittens can be transiently positive, or falsely negative.

On the other hand, testing for FIV is more difficult until after a kitten is four months old. The good news about FIV is that it is much harder to transmit than FeLV, and cats that have been infected with FIV can live long, healthy lives, often not experiencing detrimental disease symptoms until the age of 8 years or more.

A flea on a flea comb

Fleas
Fleas are insects that love to feed on kittens. Each flea only consumes a small amount of blood, and most adult cats are relatively unaffected by large flea infestations, however fleas commonly attack in large numbers and an infestation in a kitten can lead to severe anemia and even death. It is essential that your home be free of fleas before bringing home a small kitten.

If your foster kitten enters your home with fleas, it is important to remove them without causing harm.  Fleas can be transported from the kittens isolated in one area to the main part of the house on clothing, shoes, etc. Therefore, it is also important to treat any other animals in the home with monthly flea prevention or a stray flea, flea egg, pupa or larva may cause an infestation in your house - any unprotected animal in the house can then become a reservoir for the infestation.

Check with your veterinarian before applying any commercial flea products to your kitten, as some flea medications can be harmful to cats. One safe way to remove fleas from very young kittens (less than 6 - 8 weeks) is daily flea combing. Keep a jar of soapy water near you to dip the comb into as it comes off the cat full of fleas. Try not to moisten the kitten too much, and make sure to thoroughly dry your kittens after you are done combing.

If the Kitten is 4 Weeks old and over two pounds in weight, Capstar can be given orally up to once a day to kill adult fleas. This product starts to work within 30 minutes and is effective against adult fleas for 4-6 hours. It does not have any affect on, eggs, larva, or other adult fleas in the kittens environment.

If the kitten is 6 weeks old or older, you can use topical monthly applications available from a veterinarian. Despite your best efforts at flea control, you should plan to treat the kittens for a minimum of 90 days to ensure that all the fleas are out of the household. For more information about flea control, please refer to our blog article "Fighting Fleas Fairly...For Good!"

Upper respiratory tract infection (URI)
Upper respiratory infections are very common in kittens, especially if they have been through a shelter situation and exposed to other cats. These infections are caused by airborne viruses and bacteria which are contagious and spread very quickly.

Signs of URI to watch out for:

• Sneezing and discharge from eyes or nose
• Congested breathing
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Dehydration

Vomiting
If your kitten is vomiting, it is possible that the kitten is eating his meals too quickly. You should watch him when he eats and not allow him to eat too much too quickly. If your kitten vomits 2-3 times in a row, it should see a veterinarian. Vomiting can be another sign of distemper in kittens, so it should not be taken lightly.

Raising Orphaned kittens Part 2: What to do, week by week

You've decided to raise the litter of orphaned kittens you found...

 You have all your supplies, you're ready to go, but just like caring for a 2 day old human infant is different than caring for a 9 month old human baby or two year old toddler, the age of your orphaned kittens is crucial to deciding how much to feed and how often.

0-7 days:

Feeding: 1/2 tablespoon formula every 2 - 3 hours with a kitten bottle.
If the mother, or a surrogate mother is available and healthy, the kittens should nurse vigorously and compete for nipples. Newborns can nurse up to 45 minutes at a time. When the mother cat settles down in the nest box, the kittens should bee-line to the nipples and begin to feed with minimal fussing. If the kittens wander excessively or cry excessively, there could be a milk supply issue. Check at least once daily to make sure all the kittens are nursing, if not more frequently.

Environment: Keep the nest box temperature at a toasty 85-90 degrees. The number one danger to newborn kittens is hypothermia, or a low body temperature. They cannot keep themselves warm on their own (thermoregulate).

Behavior & Training : By one week of age, the kittens should weigh 4 oz. (1/4 pound), and will be sleeping 90% of the time. They will eat the other 10% of the time. Handling should be minimal to allow babies to sleep and eat in their snug, warm nest.

1-2 Weeks of age:

Feeding: Bottle-feed formula every 2 - 3 hours until kittens are full but not bloated- usually kittens will eat at least 1/2 tablespoon of formula per feeding.

Environment: Keep the nest box temperature at a toasty 85-90 degrees.

Behavior & Training : Kittens at 2 weeks of age will weigh about 7 ounces (just shy of 1/2 pound) and have pink skin, and round bodies. If you pinch their skin gently, it should spring back into place quickly. Kittens should wiggle energetically when picked up, and should migrate towards its mother when placed back down. Healthy kittens rarely cry.

To tell whether kittens are male or female, look under the tail. Females will have two holes close together - the vulva is a vertical slit or teardrop below the anus. Males will have two holes farther apart - the opening for the penis is separated from the anus by a little bump (the scrotum) which may be difficult to see or feel at a young age. The best thing to do is find two kittens who look different under the tail and compare. By the time the kittens are ready for forever homes, it should be much more obvious, so don't despair if you can't tell this early what you have.

2-3 Weeks of age
Feeding: Bottle feed formula according to the manufacturer's instruction about every 2 - 3 hours until kittens are full but not bloated- usually kittens will eat at least 1/2 tablespoon of formula per feeding.

Environment: Floor temperature of the nest box can be a little cooler, now - about 75-80 degrees.

Behavior & Training : If there is a mother cat (queen), she will begin to spend more time out of the nest, though she won't wander far.

Kittens should weigh about 10 oz (about 2/3 pound). Their ears will start to stand up. Kittens will start to crawl around day 18 and can usually stand by day 21. Kittens will start to play with each other and explore their environment. Their baby teeth will start to come in (erupt) during this period.

The next six weeks are a critical socialization period. Kittens will learn how to act like a proper cat by watching their mother and interacting with their litter-mates. Additionally, human handling during this period is very important, too. Interaction with children may be too frightening, since even gentle children can be awkward with tiny kittens, so should be supervised closely while visiting. 

3-4 Weeks of age
Feeding: Bottle feed formula per manufacturer's instruction every 2 - 3 hours until kittens are full but not bloated- usually kittens will consume at least 1/2 tablespoon of formula per feeding. At this stage kittens may start lapping from a bowl.

Environment: Floor temperature of the nest box can be much closer to normal room temperature - 70-75 degrees from this point onward.

Behavior & Training: Kittens should weigh about 13 ounces (0.8 pounds). Their eye color will start fade from blue to the adult color, but may not reach its final color until 12-16 weeks of age. Kittens can now focus on the world with an ability similar to adults. They will start to groom themselves, though their mother will continue to do most of the serious cleaning.

4-5 Weeks of age
Feeding: By 4 weeks, your kittens should be eating and drinking from a saucer. Now is the time to start gradually weaning them. Introduce solid food by warming some pate-style canned food and mixing it with a small amount of water or formula to create a soupy gruel that they can lap at.

Without a mother cat to show them what to do, kittens will invariably walk, sit, play, slide in and track food everywhere. Offering gruel on the tip of a finger or wiping a little across a kitten's lips or teeth will help them associate the smell of food with eating behavior. Because it will take several meals before the kitten will end up with more food in its stomach than on its fur, you should continue to offer a decreased amount of formula by bottle-feeding - about 3 tablespoons (1-1/2 oz.) formula every 8 hours. This will simulate the weaning process.

This is a critical time to continue watching the kittens' weight. They should continue to gain weight through the transition from milk or formula to solid food.  If a surrogate mother or the actual mother is present, the kittens will continue to try to nurse, but she will become more and more agitated by this process. Just like small children who gain comfort from pacifiers or thumb-sucking, kittens will continue to perform nursing behavior even after they no longer gain any nutrition from it. Most cats will eventually grow out of this behavior, but it can persist long term in some cats.

Fresh water in a stable, shallow bowl.

Behavior & Training : This is the age that you can also start litter training. Make sure to provide a low sided box, as kittens are not very big. Use a low box with one inch or less of litter. As mentioned in our previous article, a disposable cake pan is perfect. Cut-off cardboard boxes also work well.

Most people think that cats need to be trained to use the litterbox, but in fact, it is an instinct for them. Even kittens raised without a mother cat will gravitate towards a box full of sandy litter and figure out what to do pretty quickly. You can speed the process by placing a kitten in the box after a nap, after meals, and after play, and (the first time or two) guiding him gently to dig in the litter. However, even if you don't do this, they will discover the box on their own.

Just like young children who are potty training, it is good to make sure that wherever the kittens are, a litter box is handy. Otherwise, they may get distracted and find themselves too far from the box with a very insistent need to go! Since most kittens are born with some type of intestinal parasite, make sure to keep the litter box very clean to prevent cross-contamination and re-infection. Cats also do not like their litter to be near their food, so make sure there is a good amount of separation between the two.

5-6 Weeks of age
Feeding: Feed four times daily, gradually thickening the gruel. At this age, you can introduce dry food and water. If your foster litter has a mother, she will continue the weaning process. If your kittens are reluctant eaters, you can try mixing any non-onion-containing meat-flavored human baby food with a little water, but this is not a long term solution, because cats need taurine in their diets or severe developmental issues of the heart and eyes can occur.  

Behavior & Training:  A good rule of thumb from this point forward is that a kitten should gain one pound a month. At 4 weeks, they should weigh about 1 pound, at 8 weeks (2 months) they should be about 2 pounds and at 12 weeks (3 months), they should weigh about 3 pounds. At this age, kittens can start to roam around the room, under supervision. The strongest, most curious kitten will figure out how to get out of the nest. The others will quickly follow. Male and female cats should start to become more easily distinguished as male anatomy develops.

Play with your kittens daily! Kittens love to climb and explore, so sit on the floor and allow them to get to know you. This game allows them not only to get exercise and develop muscle coordination, but to become comfortable with humans. Some kittens may be fearful at first; do not force yourself upon them. You can sit in the room and read or watch quiet television or listen to quiet music, and allow shy kittens to become desensitized. This is a very important step in allowing kittens to develop a confident, social attitude. As they become more adventurous, you can start to introduce other sounds, such as vacuum cleaners and dishwashers. Many very shy and secretive kittens were not abused as kittens as so many people believe, but were just never introduced to the normal noises and activities in a human home at an early age.   


6-7 Weeks of age
Feeding: By this age, your kittens should be eating canned and dry food well. You should offer food to them at least three times daily. Watch for any bullying among littermates, and ensure that all kittens are getting their fair share. They may not eat much at a single sitting, because their tiny stomachs are acorn-sized, but they like to eat at frequent intervals throughout the day. This is how a cat instinctively wants to eat, even as an adult - they spend most of the day hunting and only eat for a few minutes at a time. Frogs, bugs, rodents and birds do not make large meals.

Behavior & Training: By this time, you have "mini-cats." They will wash themselves, use scratching posts, play games with each other, their toys, and you, and many will come when you call them.

7-8 Weeks of age

Feeding: Offer wet food 3 - 4 times a day (each kitten will be eating a little over one can of food per day). Leave down a bowl of dry kitten food and water for them to eat and drink at will. If you have a litter with a mother, she will allow very little nursing.



8+ Weeks of age
Feeding: Offer wet food twice daily. Kittens should have free access to dry food and water all day.

Behavior & Training:  If all your kittens are two pounds in weight, you can start to consider finding them homes at this point, however, a large amount of social development occurs in the next 4 weeks, so the longer the kittens can remain together, the better it will be for their long-term happiness. At 3 pounds in weight, we recommend early spay or neuter surgery. It is much easier to find homes for kittens that have already been spayed or neutered and have had some vaccines and a clean bill of health from a veterinarian.

Remember: A healthy kitten is playful, has bright eyes with no discharge, a sleek coat, and a plump belly. Younger kittens are content to sleep between feedings. Normal body temperature for a kitten is 100 - 102.5. Unfortunately, kittens do become ill and sometimes die while being fostered, so it is important to take steps to prevent disease and treat it appropriately as soon as it appears.

Raising Orphaned kittens Part 1: Overview

If you find a kitten that is less than 8 weeks of age, that kitten will need fostering, either by a human or another nursing female cat. Raising orphaned kittens is a big commitment, but can also be very rewarding. If you're not sure about the age of your stray kitten foundling, please check out our previous blog article on the topic. The following are some considerations that may affect your decision to take on this responsibility.

Orphaned kittens may carry illnesses into your home that could affect your resident animals' (or humans') health. Most commonly, they may suffer from upper respiratory infections and intestinal parasites, but can also carry diseases such as calicivirus, distemper, or rabies. It is important to keep orphaned kittens isolated from your other cats in the household until you are certain they are healthy. You should also make sure that any other pets in your home are up to date on their vaccinations.

• For the protection of both parties, young children should not handle the kittens. 
• You should check the kitten for fleas before bringing it into your house, because fleas can spread disease among cats and to people. 
• You should wash your hands with soap and water hands after handling animals, fecal waste, or litter boxes, before handling your own animals or children and you may also want to change clothes. 
• You should routinely disinfect the orphaned kittens' quarters and the entire premises before new kittens are introduced. Remove all biologic materials and soak litterboxes with a mild bleach solution (1 part bleach to 32 parts water) for at least 10 minutes. All surfaces, as well as bowls and toys need to be disinfected so it would be best to keep the kitten(s) in a carpet-free area. Tiny kittens do well in large pet carriers or dog crates. 

Supply list

• Nest Box or carrier  - You will want a box that allows you to easily check on the kittens, with plenty of room for the mother (if there is one) and the growing kitten(s).
• Newspapers or absorbent pads - Keep several layers in the bottom of the box, and they will come in handy when the kittens start to roam around the room and are introduced to their litter box.
• Big litter box for mother cat (queen) - the mother cat will prefer a normal sized litterbox, but it will be too large and the sides will be too high for the kittens.
• Small litter box for kittens - An oblong, disposable cake pan is perfect. Cut-off cardboard boxes also work well.
• Cat litter
• Water bowls - Heavy and impossible to tip. Should be stainless steel or porcelain/ceramic, NOT plastic, as plastic is difficult to disinfect because it is so porous, and some cats have sensitivities to plastics.
• Food bowls (at least 2) - One is for dry cat food, the other for canned food. You can use TV dinner trays, paper plates or whatever you have; any relatively flat plate or saucer will do. The larger the litter, the larger the plate should be so that no one gets crowded out.
• Food - You should have dry kitten chow, canned cat food (any brand for adults or kittens), and all-meat baby food (must not contain vegetables or onion powder). Offer several choices to weaned kittens to determine their preferences.
• Heating pad, hot water bottle, or infrared lamp  - Prior to three weeks of age (open eyes and erect ears), kittens need an environment that is about 85°. It is best to provide them a heat source of some kind, but you must be sure that the kittens have the ability to move away from the heat if they become too warm. Do not put kittens directly on a heating source, but insulate them from it with towels. If using an electric heating pad, make sure to cover any electrical cords so that the kittens do not play with them or bite them. Alternatively hot water bottles, rice bags, or special microwaveable heating disks can be used as heat sources. These should also be covered by towels, and should be changed regularly to ensure that they stay warm for the kittens to snuggle up against.
• Clean towels and blankets
• Toys - Plastic toys that can easily be disinfected are best. Disposable toys such as empty toilet paper rolls, empty 12-pack cardboard soda boxes, old stuffed socks, caps from soda bottles and paper bags are good toys as well. Young kittens do not appear to react to catnip. Make sure to kitten proof the kitten's nursery, because anything can become a toy: drapes, venetian blind cords, lamp shades, electrical cords and breakables, etc.
• Scale - a food or postal scale is very helpful in monitoring small kittens' growth, which should average about 4 ounces a week.

FEEDING:

• Kittens should nurse from mother, or be fed with a bottle, syringe or dropper with kitten milk replacer (not regular milk) every 2-3 hours. 
• They should start by eating at least 2ml milk at a time.They will increase their food intake quickly.In as little as one week, they may drink 10-15ml per feeding. By the time they are about ready to start canned food (4-5weeks of age) they may each drink half a bottle apiece. 
• At 4-5weeks of age you may start giving canned food.Mix with milk replacer at first to get to a porridge type consistency; at first the kittens will try to suck up their canned food like they did the milk, so it has to be liquid consistency.  

BATHROOM:

• After eating, use a warm wet cotton ball, Kleenex, or baby wipe to stimulate their bodily functions.The first couple of days kittens may not have any stools until they start eating well.After that, their stools may be a soft, pudding consistency for a week or so. 
• After the first couple of days they should defecate at least a couple of times per day, though they may defecate every time as well.If kitten is not defecating at least once a day, they may be constipated. Observe for straining, vocalizing and/or vomiting. -A thermometer can be used to help stimulate defecation.If kitten is very constipated he might need fluids under the skin (contact Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital for suggestions) 
•  Kittens will most likely urinate every time they are stimulated. -The amount of urine and stool output should increase substantially over 2-4weeks -At 3 weeks of age you may try kittens in a litter pan. Put them in the pan, and they should use it fairly well right away. Cats’ instincts prepare them to urinate and defecate in dirt/sand type materials. Kittens may have a few accidents at first around or near the box. Do not be alarmed, this should resolve over a few weeks.
• Often the kittens will turn around and step in their stools because their coordination isn’t great until about 8 weeks of age.You should scoop the boxes as soon as kittens go to help prevent this.If they do step in anything, you may bathe their feet with warm water and a mild soap.Try not to wet their entire bodies at a time because they are not great at regulating body temperature until they are a little older.

 

An orphaned kitten being housed in a carrier

LIVING CONDITIONS:

• Babies are unable to regulate their body temperature very effectively until about 3 weeks of age. Keep them warm and covered with a light blanket.You may also use a “snuggly” heated disc underneath blankets as well. Do not put too many covers over them, as they may overheat as well. -You may keep them in a carrier for the first few weeks. 
• After they start using the litter box at approx 3 weeks of age, you may put them in a large play pen, or small bedroom or bathroom where they are not able to fall/jump off of anything. 
• At approx 8 weeks of age, you should be able to try and incorporate the babies into the household. Make sure to supervise them at first to make sure the other cats will get along with them.  

 

This kitten is dehydrated, and has an IV catheter placed

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:

• Watch closely for respiratory signs.Kittens do not have great immune systems, and can perish from infection if not treated appropriately. 
• Aspiration pneumonia is very dangerous for kittens; be careful when feeding not to give more milk than they can swallow at one time. 
• Watch stool and urine output closely, and observe for any signs of constipation from the milk formula.
• Look for lethargy/or inappetance. 
• If you ever have any questions about kitten health please call us at 248-666-5287 or email us at ecats@exclusivelycats.com