Monday, August 25, 2014

Feline Sense and Scents-ability: Part 1: Hearing


Veiny Cat Ear from fantasystock.deviantart.com | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI
Cat Ear from fantasystock.deviantart.com

Feline Sense and Scents-ability


Even though cats have the same five senses humans do, their perception of the world is much different. Sometimes, trying to understand a cat’s point of view can help shed some light on problems you may be having with your cat.

HEARING


Feline hearing is functionally the same as human hearing. The pinna, or outer portion of the ear, collects sound waves and translates them down the ear canal. In humans, the ear canal is a straight shot to the ear drum, while cats have a vertical canal connected to a horizontal canal in an “L” shape from the top of the head, straight down and then turning inward. Once the sound waves have rounded the corner of the ear canal, they cause the eardrum to vibrate, stimulating the ossicles of the middle ear (tiny bones called the malleus, incus and stapes - otherwise known as the hammer, anvil and stirrup). These ossicles transmit the sound waves to the cochlea.
Cat Ear Anatomy | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI
Cat ear anatomy

The cochlea is a fluid-filled structure in the middle ear. The sound waves are translated to fluid waves in the cochlea that are then sensed by nerves connected to fine hairs that float in the fluid and is then sent on to the brain for interpretation. This is the area that a human “cochlear implant” stimulates to help correct hearing loss. The feline cochlea has 3 complete turns while the human cochlea only has 2.75 turns. They have 10,000 more auditory nerves than humans. Near the cochlea is another fluid- and carbonate crystal-filled structure called the vestibular apparatus that is in charge of balance.

Cats are exquisitely adept at locating prey. They can distinguish between two different sound sources 8 cm apart (shorter than the length of an iPhone) at 2 yards and 40cm apart (about 1 foot, or a little longer than 3 iPhones) at 20 yards. They can hear a rustling mouse 20-30 yards away. They can hear 10 distinct octaves of notes vs. humans’ 8.5 octaves. They even hear one octave above their canine counterparts.

Chart courtesy of www.watchingtheworldwakeup.blogspot.com
There are 4 sets of muscles that control the motion of the cat’s external ear flap, or pinna, and allow it to rotate 180 degrees to catch a sound and orient on it. You can use this information to make playtime more interesting for your cat. Make “hide and seek” with toys more challenging by using quieter, less obvious “prey”. Test your cat’s auditory awareness with a tiny crinkle from a crinkle-toy. See if they notice.  

Even though you think they can’t hear you, don’t yell at your cat! He can hear you, he just isn’t listening to you.

When your cat is sleeping it is still attentively listening, scanning for audible information, which is why your “soundly sleeping cat” is standing right at your feet the second you open a can of food. 


Monday, August 18, 2014

Cats and Vaccinations - Frequently Asked Questions



Black cat licking veterinarian after exam  | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI
"Thank you" kisses for Dr. Demos!
The most important reason that your cat should visit the veterinarian 1-2 times yearly is for the expert physical exam your pet's doctor performs. A proactive approach to your cat's health, focused on wellness and preventive care can be beneficial because illness and disease can be detected earlier, when treatments may be more successful and less costly. In addition to physical examinations and discussing your cat's diet and litterbox habits, when your veterinarian discusses your cat's health with you, he or she will likely recommend updating your cat's vaccinations.

What are vaccinations?

Vaccinations are injections of a substance that stimulates a cat's immune system, preparing the body to fight disease-causing organisms. Most vaccinations are developed for viral infections - diseases that cannot be treated with antibiotics. Some vaccines are developed for severe bacterial diseases, too.

Types of Vaccines -
  • Inactivated vaccines or "killed virus" vaccinations are vaccines that contain viruses that are unable to reproduce in the body. The majority of this type of vaccine contains adjuvants.
  • Modified-live vaccines contain viruses that can replicate, but do not cause clinical disease. While it is unlikely, it is theoretically possible for this type of vaccine to revert to virulence and cause disease.
  • Recombinant vaccines do not contain the whole virus, but specific parts of the virus DNA that the body's immune system recognizes as an invader, but that don't actually cause disease. These strings of proteins are either inserted into a non-disease-causing virus (vectored vaccine) or are inserted into bacterial DNA (called plasmids) so that antigens can be harvested and purified for use in vaccines (subunit vaccine).

Why do cats need vaccinations?

Vaccinations are very important to the health of your cat - the diseases we vaccinate for are diseases that do not respond well to treatment, and in most cases are deadly or produce life-long complications. Diseases like distemper are extremely long-lasting in the environment, lasting for years and can be brought into your home on your hands, feet or clothing if you come into contact with the virus particles in the environment. Additionally, the virus that causes distemper is resistant to disinfectants, can be passed to kittens through breast milk from the mother and can be acquired in utero. During the summer, cats that go outdoors are at higher risk because they are more likely to spend a longer or more frequent amount of time outdoors. Other diseases that we vaccinate for can be transmitted through the air. Rabies virus is transmitted by the bite of an infected animal, and despite common misconception, an infected animal is not always the raging, frothing creature that you see in the movies. Most skunks do not show signs or symptoms of infection, and any skunk that you encounter should be considered to be a carrier of rabies. In  companion animals, signs of infection may not show up for 10 days after the animal begins shedding the virus - so if your cat gets into a fight with a stray cat that seems healthy, that cat could be rabies positive, but may not be recognizably so until it has disappeared into the woods again.

But my cat doesn't go outside he doesn't need vaccinations!

Indoor cats are definitely at lower risk for communicable diseases, however there are many factors that still create risk for these cats. If you bring a new cat into the house from a rescue or shelter, you may be bringing disease into your home. A trip to the pet store to buy cat food may result in virus particles on your clothing that you can bring home to your cat. A friend with a sick pet may bring virus particles into your home while visiting. Airborn viruses can travel into your home through open windows and doors. You may bring virus particles in on your shoes after working in the yard. A stray cat may visit your screen door. Your cat may need to be boarded in an emergency situation, and would require vaccinations to do so.

In the case of rabies, the major carrier of this disease in Michigan is the bat. We very frequently receive phone calls from people telling us that they found a live or dead bat in their home, and most people do not know that a bat has access to their home until it is inside. Most bats are able to squeeze through extremely narrow openings; the little brown bat can enter a space (5/8" by 7/8") and the big brown bat can squeeze through an opening (1-1/4" by 1/2"). Bat bites are almost microscopic, so you would be unable to tell if your cat had been bitten by the bat. If your unvaccinated cat were to escape from your home and get bitten by an unknown animal, vaccination after the fact would not be guaranteed protection, and Michigan Public Health officials must proceed as though the animal that bit your pet was positive, euthanizing and testing your cat. If your unvaccinated cat bites a person, it could result in a 10 day quarantine at an animal shelter at your expense.

Rabies is a life threatening disease and in companion animals, there is no cure. The only definitive test for rabies requires euthanasia of the animal in question and examination of the brain tissue. By the time your pet starts showing signs of disease, you could already have been exposed. While rabies vaccinations are not required by law for cats in the state of Michigan, the safest thing to do for you and your cat is keep your pet's vaccines up to date.

For the health and safety of all of our patients and staff, all cats that come into our hospital for surgical or dental care or boarding must be up to date on vaccinations.


How often do cats need vaccinations?

The number and frequency of vaccines recommended for a cat is often a complex and individualized plan based on each cat's age, lifestyle, risk assessment and health status. However, there are some general guidelines that have been established by scientific study and experts in the field that are upheld by professional groups that specialize in feline medicine, such as the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) and the International Society of Feline Medicine (ISFM).  In some states, certain vaccinations and schedules are required by law.

Kittens are more susceptible to disease because their immune systems are not fully developed. Kittens raised by their mothers receive antibodies from their mothers, but these antibodies can interfere with vaccinations. Since we do not know for certain how long maternal antibodies remain active, or if every mother cat provides antibodies to all the major diseases, kittens need a series of vaccines to provide immunity. This series should continue until the kitten is at least 16 weeks of age. Additionally, any cat receiving a vaccination for the first time, no matter how old they are, will usually need a series of two vaccinations to ensure adequate protection.


It is recommended that even if a cat is not due for vaccination in a given year, they should be evaluated by a veterinarian at least annually, to ensure that health and risk status has not changed.

Cats should be tested for Feline Leukemia before starting the series of Feline Leukemia vaccinations because there is no medical benefit in giving a Leukemia vaccine to an infected cat. There are no negative side effects to vaccinating an infected cat, but this also eliminates the possibility of failing to recognize vaccine failure. If a previously untested cat who has been vaccinated for Feline Leukemia is later tested and is positive for Feline Leukemia, there is no way to tell if the Leukemia virus has been present long term or if the cat was recently exposed and the vaccine did not protect him. 

What are the possible side effects of vaccination?

The currently available feline vaccines do have an excellent safety record, however negative events following vaccination can occur. It is important to report these events to your veterinarian if they do occur, as veterinarians are requested to report adverse events to the manufacturer, as well as the USDA. It is also important to note that not all negative events that may follow vaccination can be directly said to be caused by the vaccine with 100% certainty. 

During the years 2002 - 2005, more than 1.25 million vaccines were given to cats at Banfield Hospitals across the US. In that time period, 51.6/10,000 cats had reactions within 30 days of vaccination (0.52%). Of these reactions, 54% experienced lethargy (weakness/tiredness) with or without fever, 25% experienced pain at the injection site, 10% experienced vomiting, 6% experienced facial swelling, 2% experienced generalized itching. Death occurred in 4 cats (0.04%) - two of these deaths were related to anaphylaxis (allergic reaction). Vaccines containing a Chlamydophila component were more likely to cause lethargy and fever than those without. Several other vaccine reaction studies report a rate of adverse reaction between 0.23% and 3% depending on the type of vaccination, the number of vaccinations given at one time, and the type of reaction being monitored.

Anaphylaxis or "allergic reaction" occurs rarely (about 1-5/10,000 cats).  It can be identified as vomiting, diarrhea, respiratory distress, facial itching or swelling, and collapse. Often, this type of reaction can be adequately controlled with the use of antihistimines or steroid medications or a different vaccine formulation.

Vaccine-associated sarcomas are a known problem, but the exact reasons that they form is not yet understood. Many suggest that the development of these tumors may result from inflammation or trauma at the injection site. Feline injection-site sarcomas (FISS) are rare, occurring in fewer than one out of every 10,000-30,000 cats, but the severity of this side effect is frightening to many people. In recent years, many precautions have been taken to minimize the trauma and inflammation caused by vaccination, and the frequency of this problem has significantly decreased. At Exclusively Cats, we give vaccinations in insulin syringes, to decrease the needle trauma associated with vaccination. We allow the vaccines to warm to room temperature before giving them, and we choose to use primarily non-adjuvanted vaccines. In addition, we vaccinate cats only as frequently as medically necessary to provide immunity, and we avoid vaccinating cats that have other compromising health issues (which is why we do not administer vaccinations without a physical exam). In addition, we use recommended vaccination sites low on the leg so that, in the eventuality that a sarcoma does develop, the limb can be amputated if necessary, to prevent the spread of the tumor to the rest of the body and prolong the life of your cat.

More about the diseases that we vaccinate for:
Feline Panleukopenia (also known as Feline Distemper, Feline Parvo, or Infectious Enteritis)
Feline Leukemia
(more to come...)

Monday, August 11, 2014

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disaster: Part 4: Preparing a Disaster Kit and a First Aid Kit for your Pet




Planning a disaster preparedness kit for your pet
  • One to two-week supply of food. Store it in a water-tight, rodent-proof container and rotate it every three months to keep it fresh. If you use canned food, include a spare can opener and a spoon.
  • One to two-week supply of fresh water. If officials declare your household water unfit to drink, it’s also unsafe for your pets. Follow American Red Cross guidelines for storing emergency water for your family and your pets.
  • Medication. If your animal takes medication, a replacement supply may not be easily available following a disaster. Make sure to include dosing instructions and refill information for your pharmacy or veterinary hospital
  • Copies of vaccination records and/or medical records in a waterproof sleeve (a rabies certificate is extremely important), and information about any special needs for your pet
  • Photographs of you with your pets to prove ownership
  • Photographs of your pets in case you need to make "lost pet" fliers
  • Emergency Contact list  (Veternarian, Emergency Vet, local pet-friendly hotels, and a poison-control center or hotline such as the ASPCA poison-control center, which can be reached at 1-800-426-4435). It is a good idea to include directions to these places as well.
  • Pet first aid kit and book
  • Temporary ID tags. If you've evacuated, use this to record your temporary contact information and/or the phone number of an unaffected friend or relative.
  • One secure carrier for each pet. Carriers should be large enough to allow your pet to stand comfortably, turn around, and lie down. Your pet may need to remain in the carrier for several hours at a time. If you have multiple animals to transport, you can use an EvacSak, which is
    easy to store and use for transport, but if your pet needs to be contained for several hours, a carrier is a better choice. In an emergency where time is of the essence, a pillowcase will do for short periods of management, if nothing else will suffice.
  • Favorite toy, treats, beds, blankets - small creature comforts to help de-stress your pet
  • Small litterbox, litter scoop and litter
  • Paper towels, pee pads, pet cleaner
  • Garbage bags
  • Roll of tape and permanent marker
  • Flashlight with spare batteries
  • Radio and spare batteries

What should be in your pet's First Aid Kit? Most of the items in a pet first aid kit can also be found in First Aid kits geared towards humans. It is a good idea to bring along a First Aid kit if you are traveling with your pet. Assemble the following in a zippered tote bag or plastic box. A fishing tackle box might do nicely!


Activated charcoal
Adhesive tape - do not use Band-Aids on pets! 1/2 - 1" tape is a good size for cats
Anti-diarrheal medication
Antibiotic ointment for wounds (neomycin, polymixin B, bacitracin)
Antibiotic ointment for eyes
Baby Wipes
Bandage scissors
Bandage tape
Betadine (povidone-iodine)
Blanket - foil emergency blanket
Chlorhexidine scrub and solution
Clippers for grooming - battery operated
Corn syrup (Karo) for hypoglycemia
Cotton balls and/or swabs
Cotton bandage rolls
Dawn dish soap
Ear cleaning solution
Elastic bandage rolls (such as VetWrap or Coflex) For cats, we are fond of 1.5". Do not wrap this too tight; preferably, loosen it from the roll, then wrap with it, just tight enough to stay on.
Eye rinse - sterile (not contact lens solution)
Flea and tick prevention medication
Gauze pads and rolls (2")
Hydrogen peroxide 3%
Ice pack
Large tongue depressors or ice cream sticks (can be used as splints)
Isopropyl Alcohol or alcohol wipes
Latex or nitrile gloves
Measuring spoons
Muzzle - this may be necessary if your pet becomes injured and is in extreme pain, but do not use it if your pet is vomiting, choking, coughing or otherwise having difficulty breathing
Medication - 2 week supply
Nail clippers
Needle-nosed pliers
Non-absorbent wound pads, Telfa or other
Pedialyte
Penlight
Saline solution for rinsing wounds
Sterile lubricant/petroleum jelly
Styptic powder
Small syringes and eye-droppers
Thermometer (digital) - your cat's rectal temperature should be between 99.9-102.5
Tourniquet
Towel and washcloth
Tweezers

You can also purchase pre-assembled Pet First Aid Kits at many Pet Stores and online retailers.



Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment. Please consult with a medical professional before using any home remedies, or in any case where poisoning is suspected. Do not induce vomiting in a suspected poisoning case unless instructed to do so by your veterinarian or the Pet Poison Helpline - in some cases, vomiting can cause additional trauma and complications.

There are many pet first aid books that you can purchase for reference, as well. This one is produced by the Red Cross.

Monday, August 4, 2014

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disasters: Part 3: After the Emergency


photo by Stan Carroll
In honor of Pet Safety Month, here are some suggestions to help you weather an emergency with your pet.

3) AFTER THE EMERGENCY

A snake takes refuge during a flood
Depending on the level of damage to your area, your home may be a very different place after the emergency is over, and it may be hard for your pets to adjust.

  •  Keep your pets confined indoors or out with leashes only. Depending on the type of emergency, familiar landmarks and smells might be gone, and your pet could be disoriented. If pets are allowed to roam loose during this period, they could easily get lost.
  • Keep cats in carriers inside the house, until you have finished assessing the damage. If there are broken windows or loose doors, your pet could escape your home.
  • Be patient with your pets after a disaster. Most pets thrive on routine, so try to return to a normal daily schedule as soon as possible. High levels of stress can cause behavior problems. Do your cats tend to fight after one cat visits the veterinarian? Cats especially depend on scent to identify familiar people and animals as well as places. Your cats may not get along after the disaster for the period of time that it takes to re-establish the "family scent". In some cases, a traumatic event can cause two cats that get along very well to completely disassociate with each other. Prepare for the fact that your terrified cats may be too stressed to be re-introduced right away, and let them re-acclimate to each other gradually. If these problems persist, or if your pet seems to be having any health problems, talk to your veterinarian. 
  • If there has been a flood, make sure to check your house and yard for wild animals that may have taken refuge there. Stressed, displaced and injured wildlife can pose a threat to you and your pet.

Friday, August 1, 2014

Meet Mr. August!



Orange and black tabby toyger | | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI

SAMMY


Age: 3 years
Sammy the toyger at meal time with his toy | | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MIGender: Neutered Male
Weight: 10.7 pounds - Great body condition!
Demeanor at the vet: Very sweet boy!

Here are some fun facts about Mr August:  
--Sammy is our 1st purebred cat and he is a Toyger. 
--He LOVES to play, play, play. His favorite toy is “Da Bird”. He likes to catch his “prey” and puts the feather toy or mouse in his food dish before he starts eating.
Sammy the toyger playing || Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI--The picture in the calendar is one of the few times he accepted having the harness and leash on him. The 1st time we put it on him he fell over like it weighed 500 lbs - He is so dramatic!  I thought it was safe to go in the house for a few seconds and I came back outside and he was in the tree!  
Sammy the toyger and his best buddy Roo || Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, Waterford, MI 
--He also loves to supervise when we are taking a shower…he talks and talks and paws and paws on the door. As soon as the door is opened he prances in and continues to chat away - he is quite vocal.
--He HATES the car! He cried the entire 6 hours it took for us to drive him home from the breeder when he was only 3 lbs and 12 weeks old. He still cries loudly when he has to go to the vet. 
--He absolutely loves his brother Roo and wants to sleep with him wherever that might be; if Roo moves, Sammy moves. He is a great addition to our home and we love him to pieces.


Monday, July 28, 2014

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disasters: Part 2: During the Disaster


In honor of Pet Safety Month, here are some suggestions to help you weather an emergency with your pet.

2) DURING THE EMERGENCY
Evacuate early. If a serious emergency is on its way, don't wait for a mandatory evacuation order. Leaving in a calm, controlled fashion is not only better for your pets, it is better for you, too, especially since many pets can be stressed by the smell of smoke, the sounds of high winds, or flashes of lightning. Some people who have waited until emergency officials evacuated them have been told they had to leave their pets behind.

Identify a safe area of your home where you and your family can stay together, if you must wait out a storm or other disaster at home. Make sure that the safe area is animal-friendly:
  • Close off or eliminate unsafe nooks and crannies - Frightened cats may try to hide in small spaces when they are fearful, and may become trapped in areas where you cannot reach them if you eventually end up needing to evacuate.
  • Move dangerous items - Any tools or toxic products that have been stored in your safe area should be relocated, in case there is a possibility of a leak or spill.
Be sure to close your windows and doors, stay inside, and follow the instructions from your local emergency management office.
  • Stock your emergency supplies in your "safe room" in advance - Have your pet's medications and a supply of pet food and water inside watertight containers, along with your other emergency supplies, as well as a pet carrier or crate for each pet. Close off any open fireplaces, vents, pet doors, or similar openings in the house, with plastic sheeting and strong tape.
Listen to the radio periodically, and don't come out until you know it's safe.
(from Universal-radio.com)

Fresh water is particularly important. If power outages are a possibility, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure an adequate supply of water.

If flooding is expected, make sure that your safe area is in the highest location in your home, or in a room that has access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter. Your pets are closer to the ground and will be affected by high water sooner than a human.

Monday, July 21, 2014

Pet Safety Month: Animals in Disasters: Part 1: Plan Ahead


 In honor of Pet Safety Month, here are some suggestions to help you weather an emergency with your pet.

1) PLAN AHEAD

- Make sure your pet is microchipped. Collars and ID tags are important, too, but if your cat is wearing a safe break away collar, the collar could be lost and your cat's identification would be lost with it. Most of the lost cats that we hear about are not microchipped. If your pet has a chip with current registration information, they have more than 70% chance of finding their way back to you, compared to only a 10% chance if they have no identification. Onlyabout 1-2% of dogs and cats that appear in shelters as "found pets"have any kind of identification. Reasons that microchip identification fails to work include: unregistered chips, disconnected phone numbers, failure of the contacted owner to respond to phone calls or letters about their pet.

- Even if a collar could become lost, training your cat to wear a safe, break-away collar is a good idea, since that is the first form of identification that rescuers will look for. It is also more obvious that your pet has ID if they are wearing a collar, than if they are only microchipped, even if the only tag on the collar is the one that indicates your pet has a microchip! You may want to make sure that the phone number on your cat's ID tag is a cell phone and not a land line in case you need to relocate and cannot be reached at your home number.

- Know where the pet-friendly hotels are located in the near (and far) vicinity. If your house loses power and you need to relocate, you may not know how far you need to go to reach an area that is safe. You may also want to make an agreement with a distant friend or relative who will allow you to come stay at their house with your pets (or allow JUST your pets) in exchange for you agreeing to allow them to do the same. If you have multiple types of pets, you may need to make separate arrangements for each species (or even each pet!).

  • Make sure your back-up caretaker knows your pets' whereabouts and habits.
Let your back-up caretaker know where your pets' food is and where you normally feed them and keep their water bowl, and if they need any medication.

If you need help locating pet-friendly hotels, there are a number of online resources that can help you:

If you know that severe weather is approaching and that you may need to relocate, you may want to Michigan State Animal Response Team (MI-SART) is equipped to set up several animal shelters located near human shelters and is partnering withthe Red Cross to assist people in evacuating and caring for their pets.  
call ahead for reservations. Currently, Red Cross shelters do not admit any animals other than designated service animals to their shelters, however, the

- You may also want to locate emergency veterinary services outside your area, in case your pet is injured in a disaster and cannot be treated by your regular veterinarian. Also keep a list of boarding facilities or veterinary offices that plan to function in emergencies. Be aware that animal shelters bear most of the brunt of housing found pets in emergencies and will be stretched to the limit during these times, and may not be able to accommodate you.

-Exchange pet information, house keys and emergency information with a trusted nearby friend or neighbor. If you are unable to return to your home in an emergency situation, your friends or neighbors can evacuate your pets for you. If you have a regular pet sitter, he or she may be able to help, but it is a good idea to make plans in advance. Plan where to meet in case of emergency, in case power and phone communication is interrupted.

- Have an emergency kit for your animals with some important supplies and information that is ready to grab and go. We will be posting some emergency kit tips in our next article.

- Be aware of your cat's favorite hiding places so that you can locate him quickly in case of emergency. If you know ahead of time that severe weather is approaching, you may want to close off areas of the home from which it is difficult to retrieve your cats. 

- If an emergency does occur, remain calm. Your cats can sense your stress level and if you are upset, they will be, too. Some pets will feel comforted by interactions with you in a stressful situation and others will prefer to be left alone, or may benefit from being placed in a pet carrier with a blanket over the top, simulating a secure, cozy nest. Be aware that some pets may experience dramatic behavior changes during times of stress - a loving cat may become aggressive. 

- If your cat is used to going outside in a fenced yard, have a plan for the possibility that your fence might be damaged or destroyed in a severe storm. Make sure that your cats have been brought inside if a severe weather warning has been issued. Some cats may become disoriented if severe weather has affected their normal scent "directional markers" and may not be able to find their way home. Additionally, high winds or flooding may spread or spill chemicals that may be dangerous to your cat, such as chemicals, fertilizers, or other dangerous substances.

- If your cat becomes lost during an emergency, they will likely end up at an animal shelter. Keep a list of the local shelters in your area and their phone numbers and locations.
Mobile Animal Shelter Trailer

- Make sure to keep your cat's vaccinations up to date, since many emergency shelters will require vaccinations prior to admitting pets for sheltering, or will require special sheltering care, such as quarantine, for animals with no proof of vaccination.

- The most important rule: If it is not safe for you, it is not safe for your pets! Even if you think you will only be gone a short time, take your pets, since you may find that even after the emergency has passed, travel may be restricted due to road damage, downed power lines, or other post-emergency problems. In addition, if they are left behind and your house is damaged, your cats could become injured or escape from your damaged home.

Additional Resources



Tuesday, July 15, 2014

July 15th is National Pet Fire Safety Day!


Did you know that firefighters rescue more pets than people from burning buildings? People can get out of a house on their own, but pets, especially cats, can become frightened and hide in small places, making it difficult to evacuate them.

If you need a sticker for your door or window to alert emergency personnel that they should watch for pets in your home, visit this link. When you receive your window cling, write down the number of pets you have and then attach the cling to a front window. Your local fire department may also have stickers available.

Here are some additional pet fire safety tips:

  • Extinguish Open Flames - Cats are curious critters and will investigate cooking appliances, candles, or even a fire in your fireplace. They will walk across hot stoves, and they will bat at hot irons. Ensure your pet is not left unattended around an open flame or other heated appliance and make sure to thoroughly extinguish any open flame before leaving your home. Note: a different kind of burn (chemical) can occur when cats come into contact with scented oils in diffusers or heated oil lamps. Please make sure that your cat does not come into contact with these aromatic oils. These burns worsen over time, so if your cat does spill scented oil on itself, please seek emergency attention for your pet immediately, even if the burn does not appear too bad.
  • Pet Proof the Home - Take a walk around your home and look for areas where cats might start fires inadvertently, such as the stove knobs, loose wires and other potential hazards.If you have a cat that likes to chew wires, wrap the wires in bubble wrap, or spray them with a bitter tasting spray such as Bitter Apple.
  • Secure Young Pets - Keep cat, especially young kittens, separated from potential fire-starting hazards when you are away from home.This may mean your kitten needs a special play-room when the house is empty until he or she is old enough to outgrow chewing behavior.
  • Keep Pets Near Entrances - When leaving pets home alone, keep them in areas or rooms near entrances where firefighters can easily find them.  
  • Practice Escape Routes with Pets - Have a plan for your cats in case you have to evacuate quickly or firefighters need to rescue your pet. If your cat hates the carrier, have alternative carry methods such as a secure cardboard box or a knotted pillowcase. If your cat has not had to travel in a carrier, or if your cat hates the carrier, try to acclimate your cat to it by leaving a carrier out at all times. If you have a carrier that comes apart easily, you can take the top off and convert it into a bed with a cushion or soft blanket. You may try feeding your cat meals in the carrier to decrease the negative feelings your cat may associate with it. Practice putting your cat in a carrier at times other than when you plan to take them to the veterinary hospital, so that they learn that not every trip in the carrier ends with shots!
  • Pets Can't Escape a Burning Home on their Own - If you have a home security system, you may want to install monitored smoke detectors which are connected to monitoring center personnel that call the fire department. Or, if you do not have or want a home security system, a product such as the Nest Protect will send you notifications on your Smart Phone when smoke or carbon monoxide are detected in your home and no one is home.
  • Keep Your Information Updated - Firefighters are familiar with pet alert window clings so keep the number of pets listed on them updated. Knowing the accurate number of pets in the house aids rescuers in finding all of your pets. Also make sure to keep your pets' microchip information up to date in case they escape your home on their own. While you can't track them, you have an 86% greater chance of finding them if they have a microchip versus those pets that do not. If you have recently moved or changed your phone number or email address, take a moment and update that information with your microchip company. If your pet is not currently microchipped, you may want to think about having it done.
  • Summer is Grilling Season! - Be aware of your pets around the grill, as well! June and July are the peak months for grilling accidents. Your cat may try to jump on the grill and investigate that yummy cedar-planked salmon or sink their claws into those just baby back ribs!



Friday, July 11, 2014

Meet the Cats of July!

Messrs. and Miss July - Joey, Roger, and Delilah 
As told by Joey
Eight years ago, while still a very small kitten, I (the Tuxedo on the left) was found wandering the halls of a Catholic high school in Plano, TX. After a brief stay with a family, and an incident with two schnauzers that I still say was not my fault, Mommy picked me up from a shelter.
Joey

Me and Mommy are now far away from Texas - we live on a small lake in Waterford, with Daddy and lots good of smell-o-vision. In October 2012, I had a stay-cation at Exclusively Cats, and I came home with two cats of my own, Roger and Delilah.

Trisha rescued "Dodgie" and "'Lilah" from underneath a Dumpster in Flint, and I'm very happy that they're my cats now. Roger, the big black cat on the right, and Delilah, the little gray and white cat in the middle, have come a long way since we all came home almost two years ago. They started out being very shy, hiding behind the drier, but now they take naps with me, and we chase each other all over the house. Roger is still very shy around the bipeds, but Delilah will jump up on the couch - or let Daddy scoop her up - for rubs and scritches. She also likes to fling toys off the top of the cat tree and send them across the den.

Roger
I started out as the big brother, but Roger may be a little bit bigger than me (just a little). I still win when we wrestle. Just sayin'. I see another cat who lives outside, Yeti, and he gets the best food ever that Mommy and Daddy put out for him. Daddy says it's the same kibble I eat, but I know better. I hope I get to adopt him soon, too!


Kitty BFFs!

Monday, July 7, 2014

How do I know if my cat has high blood pressure?

This is Kitty - why is she falling?

Does this cat look like she has high blood pressure? It's hard to tell from the outside, so routine testing, or "screening" is usually the best way to tell.

Most of the time, when we diagnose cats with high blood pressure, their owner has no specific complaints about their cat's health or behavior. That is because most of the negative effects of high blood pressure in cats are subtle, and act internally before outward signs are seen.

One of the most common causes of sudden blindness in cats is high blood pressure. This is because the tiny blood vessels are put under a lot of strain when a cat has chronic high pressure. This can cause the vessels to rupture or break and small areas of the retina lose blood supply. Once the blood supply is gone, small lesions or detachments form, giving your cat spotty vision. If this goes on for long enough, the entire retina can detach and cause complete blindness.

Fortunately, if high blood pressure is caught early, before too much retinal damage has been done, the lesions can heal, with treatment.




This particular cat was brought in to have an exam because she was wobbly and had started falling off a chest of drawers where she liked to sleep. The only thing that was found on her exam was that she had high blood pressure and some changes to the retina:


So, that's one problem on her list - but is her high blood pressure making her fall?

Sometimes, when a cat has high blood pressure, it is due to the presence of another disease, such as kidney disease, or hyperthyroid disease. In fact, 61% percent of cats with chronic renal failure and 87% of cats with hyperthyroidism have high blood pressure, according to research (citation below).

For Kitty, we took a blood sample to test for kidney disease and hyperthyroid disease. We discovered that Kitty did have some mild changes to her kidneys, too. We started blood pressure medication for Kitty, and when she came in to have her pressure rechecked, her owner told us that she was a changed cat! She had significantly improved, and was no longer wobbly or falling off her favorite sleeping spot.

High blood pressure can cause signs that owners can note, but again, most people only recognize that there was a problem after their cat's high blood pressure is being treated. We hear comments like: "Fluffy is so much less cranky!" or "Callie's appetite is so much better!" or "Smokey seems so much less restless and has stopped crying at night!" when people come in for their blood pressure rechecks.

Other symptoms of high blood pressure (besides blindness and retinal detatchment) include:
  • Seizures
  • Circling/disorientation
  • Dilated pupils
  • Hemmorrhage (bleeding) of the eye or nose
  • Blood and/or protein in the urine
  • Abnormal kidneys
  • Heart murmur
  • Weakness
  • Signs of thyroid disease
If you think your cat may have high blood pressure, or if your cat is over the age of 7 years and you would like your cat screened for high blood pressure, you may want to consider participating in a current high blood pressure study that is being run. For more information about the study, visit www.mycatcanhelp.com or read more about it on our blog at "Feline Hypertension: What you need to know!"

Monday, June 30, 2014

Why are my cats fighting? Part 3: Finding solutions - the 5 "R"s



Gray tabby cat and orange tabby cat fighting | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital Waterford, MI

If you have read part 1 and part 2 of this series, you now may have a good idea what reasons may be behind your cat's aggression and you have a list of behaviors and locations that clarify the aggression. However, what you really want is a solution, right?

Some forms of mild territorial aggression, such as conflict that occurs after the introduction of a new cat to the household, will resolve themselves over a period of 4 months. Temporary aggression issues, such as conflict after a veterinary visit or other traumatic event, may resolve in 24-48 hours.

Gray cat being petted on the cheek | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital Waterford, MI
Rub cats around the cheeks and face to transfer scents
Re-Scent: If your cats only have problems after one of them visits the veterinarian (non-recognition aggression), try to schedule vet visits at the same time, or segregate the cat that went to the vet in one room with food, water and litter, to let him regain the familiar smell of the household and de-stress before re-introducing him to your other cats. You could speed the process by rubbing the cats with the same towel around their ears and cheeks - the areas that cats use to mark their territory and rub other cats - and then across their bodies.


Re-Introduce: For troubles with a new cat in the house, or long-standing territorial issues, try re-introduction of the cats. Generally, the aggressor cat is the one that should be treated as the "new" cat and the victim should be treated as the "existing" cat. Use rewards to reinforce desired behaviors, but do not physically punish fighting. It will NEVER help the situation, and may make the situation worse. Patience is a big key to working with remodeling your cat's relationships - your goal in cases of aggression is not to make your cats into best buddies, but to give them the ability to tolerate each others' presence without fighting.

Poolga image by mckibillo | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital Waterford, MI
Method of exercising cats by mckibillo on Poolga
Redirect: Don't punish aggressive behavior, because that will cause stress, which may increase aggression. Don't reward aggressive behavior by trying to distract the aggressor with treats or attention, either. Instead, try to distract the aggressor before a fight occurs by redirecting his attention with an interactive wand toy, a game of fetch, or a laser pointer or flashlight and try to lure him away from the impending fight. Reward the cat when you catch him acting neutrally towards the victim.

Resource management: Increase the desirable space in your house by adding vertical territory, such as cat trees, perching shelves, or giving cats access to upper levels of existing shelving with ramps and stairs. Make sure that there are plenty of feeding and watering stations, so that essential resources can't be completely blocked, and make sure that you have at least one more litter box than the number of cats in your home, preferably at least one box on each level of your house, as well. This will help prevent inappropriate elimination related to resource blocking or stress.

Remedies:
Medications: If aggression issues are significant, your veterinarian may recommend the introduction of calming medications or anti-anxiety drugs to aid your efforts to train your cats to tolerate each other. These medications will help take the edge off the bully's attacks, or decrease the victim's reaction to aggressive posturing from the aggressor cat. Drugs are generally not the cure for the problem, but can be a useful tool to aid in implementing behavioral conditioning. Sometimes only one cat needs to be medicated, but sometimes the problem is significant enough that both cats need to receive drug therapy in addition to behavioral therapy. Medications such as fluoxetine, buspirone, alprazolam, clomipramine and elavil are prescribed based on the information that a cat owner provides about the types of aggressive incidents that occur. Because the dosages are different for humans and cats, and because the recommendation for medication is based on the behavior of the cat, it is only recommended to start behavioral drug therapy with the guidance of a veterinarian.

In addition to prescription medications, some of the other products that we often incorporate into behavioral solutions are pheromone products, wraps and treats.

Feliway | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital Waterford, MI
Feliway
Pheromone products: Calming pheromones help decrease the stress levels in the household and lower the intensity levels of the aggressive encounters. Products such as Feliway and NurtureCalm contain pheromones associated with marking "happy places" and the chemical a mother cat produces to calm and reassure her kittens.

Wraps: The Thundershirt is a product based on information from studies of autistic children and adults indicating that pressure therapy, massage, and the use of a hugging machine can relieve anxiety. In addition, swaddling of infants has been shown to calm them. While research and controlledstudies are still in the works for this therapy, it is not harmful to employ them in an effort to calm hyper-anxious pets as a part of a behavioral plan.
Black cat in Thundershirt | Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital Waterford, MI
Mr. B wears a Thundershirt to help him deal with all the cats in the hospital
 
Treats and Supplements: The pill Anxitane and Composure treats contain L-Theanine, (Gamma-ethylamino-L-glutamic acid) which is derived from the mushroom Boletus badius and Camellia sinensis tea leaves. L-Theanine causes a calming effect without drowsiness.

You will probably need to resign yourself to the fact that your cats will never be best friends. If aggression is a significant issue between your cats, the best you may be able to hope for is tolerance of the other cat's presence, and that can take months of baby steps forward (and a few steps back) to accomplish. However, if you are patient, and if you let the cats tell you when you can move forward, you will hopefully eventually be rewarded with a peaceful (if not amicable) household.