Meet Mr. April!

    

Mr. April is none other then Speedy Bishop from White Lake Mi.

BORN - In Charlotte, North Carolina. Rescued at 1 day old!

STATS - Speedy is 8 1/2 yrs. old and 17# of pure Love (at home anyway )

LIKES - Mr. April prefers Tortie girls, specifically Trixie! He enjoys long naps in the sun on the bed, when he's not frolicking with his favorite ECATS nip bag (best nip in town) Mr. April can also be found on cold winter nights relaxing by the fire place before he retires for the snuggle up with his mom!

FAVORITE TOYS-  Catnip bags, and Mr. Froggy

TALENT - Gives "high paw" on command

FEARS- the new Shark vacuum monster!

MEOWS OF WISDOM - Speedy says " be sure to get your yearly wellness at ECATS, stay healthy, peace, & love."

* Mr. April is always available for fan photos & pawgraphs upon request!

Dirty fur blues: How do I keep my cat clean and still be friends?

Beautiful Zoei

One of our clients asked a great question of us:

I have a question that other cat owners may have: How do you shave kitty's bum and still have kitty like you afterward? We bought clippers and have all the length attachments. When it comes down to it, when kitty cries, I stop trimming.

Our particular situation is Zoei. Her fur is long and when she uses the litter pan, I think she sits right on the litter. It must be difficult for her to hold the stance with one back leg. The result is damp fur and (worse) poo-fur around her bum. We've learned that the deeper the litter, the less mess on her. In the meantime, we use a warm washcloth when necessary. She doesn't like that so we may as well trim her fur. How can we do that with the least amount of invasion? Thank you!!

Exclusively Cats responds:
There are a few things that you can do.

1) Acclimation and desensitization are the key. One of our technicians has been working with my her own new kitten at home, just to get him to accept a comb, let alone the clippers she foresees in his future. Here is what she did:

At first, all Miles would do was bite when the comb came near him.

"When I started, I couldn't get the comb near him - he would flip around and grab my hand and bite me every time I came near him with a comb. Forget trying to comb him while he was in my lap or on the floor - he would roll over and come at me, all points bared - teeth and claws. Fortunately, he had another issue that helped me acclimate him to combing. He also liked to jump on the kitchen table - preferably when people are eating - and steal food. Since he hated combs so much, I thought: "Aha! Two birds, one stone! Either he will end up letting me comb him or he will stop getting on the table!" and started combing him on the table.

"At first, it was just like the floor - teeth and claws - but with food involved. Then, rather than

After 2 months, Miles allows combing, while on the table.

deterring him from the table, he started letting me comb his head, then his mane, then his shoulders, then the base of his tail, then under his tail, then his armpits, and now he is finally letting me comb the tip of his tail (over the course of 2 months). Now he jumps up on the table and lies down, then bats at the comb that I keep there, and looks at me expectantly. I hope that someday, I can start introducing the clippers, because I know he will need it.

"This is my continued plan: I will start by combing him with the clippers sitting nearby (not running). Then I will comb him with the teeth of the clippers (not running). Then I will comb him with the clippers sitting on the table nearby (running), then I will try using the clippers normally, but not shave close to the skin. Then I will attempt to shave close to the skin. I will likely always have to do this on the table, but perhaps I can move him to the counter, or a bathroom counter or another table besides the dinner table. I may have to involve food - no, I will almost definitely have to involve food!"


We don't know if Zoei will let you comb her (or how much of her you can comb) but if she already loves combs, start combing her with the clippers present, next to her. Reward any progress she makes, and don't try to push her too far at each session. Do this daily, or at least every other day. Develop a routine and stick with it, and with baby steps, she will gradually come around.

2) If she is cooperative but vocal, it may help to give Xanax in preparation for grooming. A doctor would have to determine if it is appropriate for her case to use Xanax, but we do use it regularly for cats that are stressed an uncomfortable, for car travel and vet visits. We just gave a dose of Xanax to a calm kitty that is here today because he is stressing out over using his litterbox.

Feliway is another calming product that you can try. Many anti-anxiety treatments take time to build up in the system, but Feliway and Xanax can be used for short term stresses.

3) We are trialing a Thundershirt for our hospital cat, Mr. B, for anxiety issues. We don't have a strong recommendation for this product, yet, but we know that many dogs benefit from this product. We can keep you informed about what our experience with it is.

The Thundershirt may decrease a  cat's anxiety in stressful situations

4) If worst comes to worst, and you just can't do it at home, a professional groomer may be in order - either a groomer that comes to your house, or one who has a brick-and-mortar store that you can visit. If she is still traumatized by a professional groomer, you can schedule her to come in and see us for a trim. Some cats that are terrible at home will be fine here (The same technician who is training her little guy to accept the comb had a cat that she had to bring in here for rear end trims. She kept herself clean until she was quite old, and was too set in her ways to acclimate, but when she came in to the hospital, she was perfectly quiet and docile for her trims). Other cats may benefit from a very short anesthetic experience for their trim.

Whatever the best solution ends up being for you, give LOTS of treats and affection when she makes progress, and she may become more accepting over time.

Meet Mr. March!

 Indigo

Age: 11 years

Weight: 13.25 pounds.

Gender: Neutered Male

Demeanor at the vet's office: Cooperative, headstrong and confident!

Indigo (Indy) was bought from a breeder in Washington, Michigan.  He was 1 of 4 Siamese blue point kittens.  He was named Indigo not only because of his color, but because he runs around the house at about 50 miles an hour, hence Indy, reminding me of the Indy 500 race. 

No matter where I am, he is with me, especially since I have retired.  He tries to help anyone that comes in my home: contractors, friends and family.  He has to be right there including in my bed at night.  He loves his "mama".  He has a great personality and will come to anyone that comes into my home.  He plays with many different toys, but prefers his little mice that he throws all over, but his favorite past time his annoying his sister (Kahlua, a chocolate point Siamese) bought from the same breeder.  

His favorite food is anything to do with seafood, preferably Fancy Feast, but the ultimate is real tuna in water, not oil.  Indigo drives me nuts sometimes, but he is truly a pleasure to have around.  I love him dearly.

The tooth about your cat's dental health

Fish breath got you down?

February is Pet Dental Health Month! Time to sit back and think about your cat's teeth!

Many people don't like to think about their cat's teeth - they're sharp, pointy reminders that your cat is a natural predator and would love to shower you with gifts of innocent birds and mice, or the occasional frog. We're reminded of their teeth when they love-nip our toes in the middle of the night, or when we get a whiff of fish-breath after dinner. However, the health of your cat's mouth is more critically important that you might realize!

Dental disease is linked to kidney disease, heart disease and other chronic illnesses. Regular dental cleanings can often prevent dental disease and the need to extract teeth. It also gives us an opportunity to address other mouth abnormalities - check for cancer, broken teeth, misaligned teeth, etc. Read on to learn more about some of the conditions that can affect your cat's mouth.

If your cat has misaligned teeth, they can poke painfully into the lip, tongue, gums or the roof of the mouth. Additionally, crowded, extra, or missing teeth can cause the same trouble.














Tartar and plaque can build up underneath the gum line and destroy the tooth from below.

 Because most dental disease begins at the root of the tooth, and cat cavities (called "resorptive lesions") start from the inside and work their way to the surface, what appears to be a healthy tooth can actually be a tooth that is in the process of being destroyed.

 Bacteria and white blood cells build up at the base of the tooth and can enter the blood stream or build up a pocket of infection called an abscess, which can cause facial swelling, fever, nosebleeds or sneezing, and poor appetite. Sometimes this can occur even when most of the tooth has fallen out.

 This tooth is filled up with pus (white blood cells and bacteria).

That missing tooth left a big open hole that can fill with bacteria and cause infection. Besides the large blocks of tartar on the upper teeth, there is a large, painful cavity on one of the lower teeth, and a very painful area surrounding the exposed roots of another tooth affected by dental disease.

 This painful condition is "stomatitis" - a severe and extremely painful swelling and inflammation of the mouth. Ouch!











If your cat has never had his teeth cleaned before, you may wonder what happens during a dental cleaning or dental surgery. To find out, you may want to read more about why dental care costs so much in veterinary medicine.

Ask any one of our patients who has had a bad tooth removed! You may not realize it, but while most cats will not stop eating if their mouth is painful, they may play less, sleep more, and lose weight. Many people are simply amazed at the positive change in their cat's attitude and health after their teeth are cleaned. Ask Rowan!

Beware of Cat!: Avoiding the human hospital after visiting the veterinary hospital

When you visit the veterinarian with your cat, and your cat is being a bit feisty and wiggly, a technician may be called into the room to hold your cat for you. You may wonder why that is - it's your cat, your loving companion, after all! You should be the one holding her, right?

Unfortunately, even the sweetest of cats may become unpredictable when frightened, and at that point, she may not care WHO is holding her. She just wants to get away to a safe, dark spot, and hide.

One of the reasons that we bring a technician in to hold a cat is that they have many years of experience holding unruly cats while remaining calm and gentle, but firm. They also have a lot of experience in avoiding getting bitten while still maintaining control of the situation, preventing others from getting bitten as well.

Why do we care so much about bites?

Well, besides the fact that they hurt - A LOT - cat bites have a high likelihood of becoming infected. According to a new study, about 1 in every three people who sought medical care for a cat bite more than 24 hours after the bite ended up being hospitalized for 3 or longer. As many as 72% of the hospitalized patients required surgical intervention for their bite wounds. Several of the patients needed multiple surgeries, and several had complications such as abscesses or lingering joint mobility issues. We don't want your visit with us to end up with a doctor visit for yourself!

At Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital, it is our goal to ensure that the safety of both our patients and our clients are of highest priority. For this reason, we hope that you understand when we ask you to sit back in your chair and relax while someone else holds your cat for the veterinarian. It's also one of the reasons why we might ask to take your cat "in the back".

 More information about cat bite related medical problems can be found here.

Meet Fabulous Mr. February!

Winter the Warlock

Age: 4 years

Weight: 10.05 pounds.

Gender: Neutered Male

Demeanor at the vet's office: Sweet and wiggly!
 

My husband and I had been window shopping for a kitty when we came across Winter (formerly Ringo) and Crystal (formerly Star) on the Adopt-A-Pet web site.  We were really only looking for one cat but we found out that he and his sister were deaf and the shelter was hoping they would be placed together, so we applied to adopt one or both.

They came from a mean breeder somewhere in Genesee County and once she realized that Winter & Crystal were deaf she was going to drown them due to the “defect”.  Luckily Adopt-A-Pet in Fenton intervened and they were rescued.  After that they were adopted out to a couple in the area but for some reason were then returned to Adopt-A-Pet.  These poor kitties couldn’t catch a break!

I remember the day we met them.  We went in the kitty room and Crystal jumped up on my husband’s lap and proceeded to adopt HIM.  Then Winter got on my lap and laid on his side and let me pet his super soft hair….the softest I have ever felt!  Crystal was the type of cat that was a no-brainer to adopt so she was leaving for sure.  Winter was also very sweet but we struggled with did we need to adopt a second cat.  Who were we kidding…Winter was such a LOVER!  After spending a little time with them we knew they were both coming home!

Winter has turned out to be a mamma’s boy and comes to me constantly for love and snuggles.  He likes to get his beauty sleep and groom his lovely coat, but also likes to zoom through the house and chase the girls.  He also loves to sneak up on his sister Crystal and jump on her…the fun of having a deaf sister!

His nick-name is Winter the Warlock and he is such a wise soul even though he is young. ..you can just see it in his eyes.  He will constantly meow if he wants food or attention and he likes to “bite” your hand or arm if you aren’t paying enough attention to you.  His bite is gentle but he will hang on to you until he gets your FULL attention!  He loves canned food but if he doesn’t like what he is served will try to bury it….then we have to move to Fancy Feast.  He doesn’t play with toys too much but he loves to use his scratching post and zoom up the cat trees in the house. 

What a wonderful decision it was to adopt both of them…they have been a delightful addition to our family and even after several years they still hang out together, play with each other and snuggle.  They were destined to be together and we are so happy that we could make it happen!

Client Question: Moving old cats into a home with other pets

Can we be friends?

Hi, I need some advice. Unfortunately I have to move, and I have to move to a place that is probably going to make Venus and Serena pretty unhappy. I am moving to a home where there are 2 male cats and a boxer. I know in the beginning I'm going to have to have everything in my bedroom. Litter box, food dishes and their beloved tree. This is all making me pretty anxious, I really worry about their transition. Can you give me any advice on how I can make them more comfortable? This is going to be a huge change for them, and as they are older I want to do whatever I can to make sure they are happy girls. And how I can stop freaking out over this because I don't want them feeding off of my anxious feelings? I appreciate any thoughts on this.

Thanks! Aggie

*****************************
ECVH answer:

In addition to other suggestions that focus strictly on the girls' behavior, we would recommend bringing them in for a check-up, if possible, to ensure that they have no underlying health issues that would make the transition even harder - this would also hopefully help relieve some of your anxiety, if they both check out to be in good health. This way, we also have a current weight on your cat, so that if we need to eventually resort to medication, we can correctly dose it.

Prepare for some hissing and growling as you go along, even if things are going well.

Definitely, you are starting out right, by getting your cats used to one room where they can feel safe. Things like Feliway spray or diffusers have a calming pheromone that can speed up your cat's ability to acclimate to a new environment.

We also have NurtureCalm pheromone collars which they can wear (One of our technicians feels that they have really helped settle things down between her two old girls and her two new boys). We do warn that if they are not used to collars, the NurtureCalm collars may add stress, though, as some cats don't like having something around their necks. We have also had one patient who had a pretty impressive skin irritation after wearing the collar for 3 weeks.

Composure or Anxitane are non-medicated treats and pills that you can give (L-theanine and B vitamins) to elevate mood and calm stressed cats. In severe cases of anxiety, we can discuss the use of anti-anxiety medications such as Elavil, Buspar, and Xanax, if needed.

Under-the-door interactions are a good step forward!

When you feel that your cats are comfortable in their new bedroom, you can start to work on introducing them to the resident pets. I usually recommend putting the resident pets in the bedroom where the new cats have been and giving the new cats a chance to explore the rest of the house on their own. This also allows the resident pets to smell the scent of the new cats without seeing the new cats. When introducing cats, it is 99% about smell. The more the cats smell like each other when they first meet, the less stress there will be. They will be less likely to first think OMG STRANGER!" and more likely do think "You seem familiar - do I know you from somewhere?" Trading unwashed blankets between pet beds, using the same brush on all pets are other things that you can do to facilitate this.

Feed all pets near the bedroom door for a while. You can try encouraging play under the door with two cat toys tied together dumb-bell style and placed on either side of the door so both cats can play but can't steal the toy away. Eventually, prop the door slightly open so they can see each other while eating once you are sure that they will eat by the door. You may also consider replacing the door with a screen door for a while, or a tall baby gate, if your cats are not jumpers. If this is not an option, you can put your cats (the newer residents) in carriers and feed place the carriers in the room where the other pets eat and feed everyone - this allows visual interaction but not physical interaction, and allows the resident pets to feel non-threatened by the newer introductions to the house. Food lends a positive note to the experience. Once the animals are eating harmoniously, you can start to allow short, supervised interactions without the crates or screens. These interactions can gradually increase in length until you are comfortable letting them interact when they are not supervised.

The important thing to remember in this situation is that you need to relax and let the cats drive the progress. In some situations, the process of introduction can take a few days, in other situations, it can take months. However, the more willing you are to take a step backward as needed, the more likely you are to have long-term success.

Watch your cats for subtle signs of relaxed or stressed behaviors:


A great article on Feline Body Language was posted in the DailyMail.co.uk.
Life With Cats also has a great series of blog articles on Understanding your Cat's Body Language.

Cats usually try to avoid direct physical confrontation by warning off a strange cat, or ignoring them completely. When it does come down to a real, physical fight, here is what to expect. As it mentions in the article, aggressive cats stare at each other, trying to gauge the other cat's next action. You can de-escalate an aggressive interaction by blocking the cats from each other's sight. This gives a cat who doesn't really want to fight a chance to escape, unnoticed. It also distracts the aggressor by making him relocate the cat he is trying to provoke. This is not a long-term solution, but can calm things down if they start to escalate.

One of our techs introduced two new cats into her house this past year (August and October - she introduced the October cat to give the August cat a young playmate and deter attention from her old ladies) and there are still occasional altercations - nothing too serious, but some yowling and growling when one of the youngsters gets too feisty. She uses a combination of calming collars on her old girls and Composure treats for her young boys, and it seems to keep everyone fairly happy. Initially, one of her old girls became extremely distressed whenever one of the young

Often cat aggression involves conflict over a distance. The cat on the right is being aggressive and the one on the left is submissive, but neither is happy with the situation...

boys pounced on her playfully. One of the young males would posture over her in an aggressive dominance pose - about a foot away from her), which would also cause her to roll on her back, scream and urinate in defensive-submissive posture (both almost exactly as in the photo above). Now, she just growls a little and hisses to warn them off, and they have learned to respect her wishes and keep their distance (most of the time...). Each situation is unique, though, so we can help guide you in your decisions to help ease Venus and Serena's transition.

We also have a blog article with some additional suggestions  here:

Welcome Home! 5 tips to help introduce a new cat into your household.

We welcome any comments down below from people who have moved with their pets. How did you lower your cats' stress level? How did you introduce them to other pets already in the home?

Four things you can do to de-stress pet travel

January 2nd is National Pet Travel Safety Day!

Preparation. Most cats hate the carrier and get stressed when they travel - often because the only time they get in the carrier is when they go to the vet! The trick to a stress-free trip in the car for your cat is positive association. With your cat safely it its carrier, take many short, treat-filled trips around the block. If a car ride equals fun and treats, your pet will be less stressed when it's time to take travel seriously. In addition, leaving the carrier out long-term with bedding in it, or feeding your cat in the carrier will help your cat feel less stressed when it comes time to get into the carrier for travel.

For long trips, pack a "cat bag" full of supplies, including food and water, portable bowls, litter box, waste bags, cleaning supplies, a bed or towel, any medications, toys, and a pet first aid kit like this one suggested by the Red Cross.

Feed your pet a couple of hours prior to departure rather than right before. This can prevent them from getting sick while traveling. Take extra food and water and pack it so that it is accessible - you never know when you may get stuck in traffic, miss your connecting flight or otherwise be delayed.

If your trip is over the course of several days, make sure your cat will be welcome everywhere you plan to stop. Many hotels and motels allow pets, but not all. A good resource for trip planning is http://www.petswelcome.com/

Prevent your cat from taking over your travel plans by securing him in a cat carrier.

Restraint. Make sure your pet is properly restrained whenever you travel by car. AAA reports that every year, 30,000 car accidents are caused due to unrestrained pets. The simplest and safest method is a well-ventilated carrier of the appropriate size which is securely fastened inside the car. It is not safe to let your pet sit on your lap or be unrestrained in your vehicle. It seems that the favorite hiding place for a cat in a car is right under the brake pedal. In addition, if you open the door, the cat may leap out and take off running into traffic, instead of waiting for you to pick him up. If you need to stop suddenly while driving, cat that is not in a carrier can become a projectile and could suffer severe injuries.

Remember, when traveling with your cat, never to leave him unattended in a parked car, even with the windows cracked. Even on a mild day, it doesn’t take long for the temperature inside a parked car to become dangerously hot or cold.

The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends stopping about every 2-3 hours to allow your pet to stretch her legs, if possible.

Identification. Whenever you travel with your pet, make sure your cat has current identification, ideally a highly visible collar and ID tag in addition to a permanent form of identification such as a microchip, in case the collar becomes separated from your pet.

Talk to your vet. Let your cat’s veterinarian know about your upcoming trip and see what he or she has to say. Since your veterinarian is aware of your cat’s health and behavior, make sure they feel that it’s okay for your pet to travel with you. You don’t want to expose your cat to unnecessary risks, so make sure his shots are current before traveling. If your cat becomes extremely stressed during travel and leaving him at home is not an option, this would also be a good time to discuss whether or not your veterinarian feels it would be appropriate for your cat to receive a mild tranquilizer. Be sure to bring a health certificate and proof of vaccination with you — you may need both when traveling through some states. If you are planning to fly with your pet, make sure to check with your airline for their health certificate requirements. Most airlines want a certificate dated within 10 days of travel, so even if your cat has had her annual checkup, she may need one just before you leave. If you are traveling internationally, especially for travel to islands, there may be medical treatment, quarantine, or testing requirements up to 12 months prior to travel! It is also a good idea to do some homework and locate the name and phone number for an emergency veterinarian at your destination.

 Pet Travel Check List:

• Properly-sized crate or harness
• Food
• Water
• Toys
• Bedding
• Collar 
• Litter box  
• Pet first aid kit 
• Name and phone number of your current vet and a vet in your destination

Meet Mr. January!

Sherlock Holmes

Age: 9 years

Weight: 16.25 pounds.

Gender: Neutered Male

Demeanor at the vet's office: Grumpy. Sherlock needs sedation for his exams - but we know that he is an awesome, loving cat at home!

Hello, my name is Sherlock Holmes. I am 9 years old and I live with my family in Walled Lake Michigan. I was born in Hikone Japan. When I was just a few days old, someone shut me in a box and put me by a river. I was very lucky my mom heard me crying while walking home from work. She had only been living in Japan a few weeks at the time. She found a nice vet, Dr. Miyajima, who took care of me for a few weeks until my eyes opened and I was well enough to come home. My mom kept me warm, bottle fed me, and played with me a lot. I lived for the first few years of my life in a small apartment in Hikone until my mom decided to move back to America.

I had no idea where America was but it must have been very far away. I was in my carrier for two hours on a train and 14 hours on a plane. My mom had my carrier on her lap the whole time, but I was still very scared. I like living in Michigan. I have many bird and squirrel friends that come to my door wall everyday to say 'hi'. I am a bit of a trouble-maker and very wary of people I don't know. My favorite things are eating tuna, being warm, and hanging out with my family. 

Tiny baby Sherlock!

Cozy kitten

 

Warm Holiday Wishes from ECVH to you!

Does your cat get that certain sparkle in his eyes, this time of year? You know, that certain festive sparkle that can only come from the center of a well-lit Christmas tree? If so, we hope that you and your Christmas decorations survive the holidays, intact! 

If you have a mischievous cat, please make sure to read our holiday survival guide. It may help make the holidays pass a little more smoothly.

Helping your Cat avoid the Emergency Room this Holiday:

Part 1: On the First Day of Christmas, my True Love Gave to Me – a Cat in a Christmas Tree!

Part 2: On the Second Day of Christmas, my True Love Gave to Me - Two Toxic Plants!

Part 3: On the Third day of Christmas, my True Love Gave to Me - Three Family Parties!

Part 4: On the Fourth Day Of Christmas, my True Love Gave to Me - Four Mewling Kittens!

 From all of us here at Exclusively Cats Veterinary Hospital to all of you, and all your cats, we hope that whatever winter holiday you celebrate is fun, festive and full of family and friends (furry and otherwise)!

Meet Miss December!

Josie 

Age: 19 months

Weight: 8.65 pounds.

Gender: Spayed female

Demeanor at the vet's office: Wiggly!

Hi,

My name is Josie Rose.  I was born on April 25, 2012, on a farm in Woodland, Michigan. So how did I come to live with my Mom and Dad in Clarkston?

My Mom started a new job, Nurse Case Manager, for a company in Hastings, MI. Mom was very sad at the loss of her kitty, Callie, in May.  A co-worker stated she had a Calico named Katie, that just had a litter of 6 and one was a Calico—Yep, that’s me!

I was taken to the hotel that my Mom was staying at.  We bonded instantly. I was still too young to leave my biological Mom so I had to wait another week to go to my new home.

My Mom picked me up at the farm and we both cried all the way to Clarkston. I was given a “bubble bath” upon arrival at my new home and then swaddled in a blanket.

I love playing with my Mom and Dad.  Dad says Mom and I are like the “Pink Panther and Kato”.  I love to jump out at Mom as she is walking by, then she chases me and I hide behind a door. She pretends not to know where I am so I stick my paw out so she will see me.  She laughs at me every time!

I love to sit on Mom’s rocking chair.  It has two cushions that are very comfy.  I also enjoy watching the chipmunks when they come up on the deck. Once I knocked the screen out of the window to get at one—MISSED!!!

I love being with my family but I have to get used to Mom and Dad’s two granddaughters—they frighten me when they scream.

I hope you enjoyed hearing my story!  Thank you for choosing me to be Miss December.  It is Mom’s favorite month.

Love,

Josie

Josie, all grown up!

What a beautiful girl!

Chewy gets a leg up!

Chewy is a 9 week old male kitten that was found by Dr. Bailey's son, Christopher. He had been attacked by a dog and had a broken leg. Christopher, a current veterinary student at MSU, brought the kitten back to Exclusively Cats to have Dr. Bailey treat him.

The left rear leg is broken

Another view of Chewy's legs, showing the healthy right leg and the broken left leg

While many small fractures of the hind limb can be stabilized with bandages and splints, a severe fracture like this one requires surgery. As you can see, the bone has been broken all the way through and the ends do not want to meet. Dr. Bailey had to place pins in the bone in order to stabilize it so that it can heal.

Chewy's leg required three pins to fix it in place, along with an outer brace.

Now that his bone is supported by the pins, it will remain end-to-end so that healing can occur. Meanwhile, although Chewy is restricted to resting in his cage, he can bear weight on the leg.


 You can see him scurrying around in this video.



Hopefully, with time and care, Chewy will be able to start looking for his forever home!

Here is Chewy with his external brace - it is a rubber tube filled with a hardening material so that it could be cut and fit to Chewy's tiny leg.

February 2014 update: Little Chewy has been getting around without any troubles for quite some time, now, and has found his permanent home with Dr. Bailey and his wife, Liz.

Meet the November Calendar Cats: Rocky and Patches!

 Rocky and Patches

ROCKY:

Age: 9/1/1993 - 1/28/2013

Gender: Neutered Male

Demeanor at the vet's office: A little grumbly, but he never really meant it.
 
PATCHES:

Age: 17 years

Weight: 10.0 pounds.

Gender: Spayed Female

Demeanor at the vet's office: Nice, but vocal

Feline Friends:   Milo (3y) and Kay (8m)

Rocky had a "rocky" start.  He was found on the curb of the street, appeared to be less than 2 months old, and had been mistreated.  He fit in the palm of one hand.  But he was a fighter and survivor.  He was also one of the most graceful cats we have ever seen.  He could go from the floor to the top of a highboy dresser in one graceful leap - and he loved be up high, looking down at the world.  I have attached one of my favorite photos of Rocky.  He loved Christmas trees - especially when he could reach the ornaments from a convenient perch.  As you can see here, I caught him in the act of taking a swing at one of them when he was young.  But he never destroyed anything on our holiday trees; it was almost as though he knew not to touch the glass ornaments.

Patches joined us when Rocky was about three years old.  They were very different cats.  He was adventurous and curious; she was gentle and content to play solo.  We always had more cats around, but Rocky never bonded with the others in the same way he did with Patches.  We often found them cuddled together.  They were wonderful friends, and while Patches has been "courteous" to others, she has never bonded with any other cat in the household like she did with Rocky.  

We are so glad this photo was selected last year, especially when we lost Rocky in January, 2013.  We miss him very much, and are grateful to have this wonderful calendar as part of his legacy.

 

 

Raising Orphaned Kittens Part 3: When to call the Veterinarian

One of the hardest parts about fostering orphaned kittens is that kittens can easily get sick. Sick kittens should be dealt with quickly, because they are small and fragile, especially if they have no mother cat.


If one or more of your orphans becomes sick, you should call a veterinarian and discuss the problem. The veterinarian may or may not advise you to bring the kitten in.

At home, you can take your kitten's temperature, if you feel comfortable doing so. You will need a regular thermometer (preferably one that you will not want to use again!) and some KY jelly.  Put some KY on the tip of the thermometer and stick just the tip into the kitten's anus. The kitten will likely protest. Hold the thermometer there until the thermometer beeps (or for about a minute if it is a mercury thermometer). If the kitten's temperature is over 103 or under 99, it is important to call the veterinarian.

Abnormal signs to watch for in a kitten:

• Discharge from the eyes or nose.
• Poor appetite
• Lethargy (lack of energy)
• Diarrhea 
• Vomiting
• Weight loss or failure to gain weight
• Coughing or sneezing

Emergencies requiring immediate veterinary attention

• Continuous diarrhea
• Continuous vomiting
• Bleeding of any kind 
• Any trauma: hit by a car, dropped, limping, stepped on, unconscious.
• Difficulty breathing.
• A kitten that does not respond or that hasn't eaten for more than a day.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR:

-Watch closely for respiratory signs.  Kittens have weak immune systems, especially when raised away from their mother, as they are not getting any antibodies from their mother. They can easily and quickly succumb to disease and infection if not treated appropriately. 

-Aspiration pneumonia is a concern for bottle-fed kittens; be careful when feeding and give them only what they can swallow at one time. Make sure to feed them in an upright position to decrease risk. 

-Watch stool and urine output closely, and observe for any signs of constipation from the milk formula. Some formulas can increase the risk of diarrhea and some can increase the risk of constipation - either one can be a significant issue for tiny kittens.

-Watch for lethargy/or inappetance.

-If you ever have any questions about kittens’ health please call your veterinarian.

Diarrhea and parasites of the digestive tract
Diarrhea is common in kittens and can have many causes including: parasites, viruses, bacteria, food changes, stress, overfeeding. Because kittens can become dehydrated very quickly, make sure to discuss your kitten's diarrhea with your veterinarian sooner rather than later. If the diarrhea is severe, lasts more than 3 or 4 feedings, or contains blood or obvious parasites, you should call a veterinarian and bring in as much as possible of the feces in a Ziploc bag.

Several causes of diarrhea in kittens involve protozoan (single-celled) parasites, such as coccidia, giardia, and tritrichomonas.  These parasites are common in kittens, and occasionally found in adults.  They are not generally treated with common de-wormers, but antibiotics. For diagnosis of these parasites, especially giardia and tritrichomonas, extremely fresh stool is best for diagnosis.

Most large intestinal worms do not cause diarrhea, but can be very debilitating to kittens in large numbers. Sometimes, if the numbers are large enough, or many worms are dying, the dead worms will pass in the stool. More often, the diagnosis for these parasites is by seeing the microscopic worm eggs in a stool sample. If you see spaghetti-like worms in the stool, you are seeing roundworms. These worms can come up in vomit or stool. The cysts of roundworms can persist for years in soil and be spread to other cats or human children, so it is important to deworm cats as directed by a veterinarian.

If you see rice-like worms on the stool or in the hair around your kittens' tails, you are seeing tapeworm segments. These rice-shaped pieces of the worms are mobile when they exit the body, so they may work their way off the stool or kitten and into the environment. They are not infective at this stage. They are spread by fleas or by eating rodents. Tapeworms do not generally cause diarrhea, but it is advisable to treat your kitten for tapeworms, especially if you know that he has had fleas in the past.

Several types of bacteria, including Clostridium, are potential causes of diarrhea in kittens, and all require microscopic examination, bacterial culture, or PCR testing for diagnosis. These are among the fecal pathogens that can be spread to people if adequate hygiene is not observed after handling sick kittens or litterboxes. Most bacteria respond quickly to antibiotics prescribed by a veterinarian.

Finally, there are a number of viral causes of diarrhea, with feline distemper (also known as panleukopenia or feline parvo virus) being the most devastating. If distemper is suspected, seek veterinary care immediately. Treatment for distemper involves aggressive nutritional supplementation and hospitalization, and you may have a number of kittens die if an entire litter is exposed.This is one of the reasons that you should make sure any older cats in your household are up to date with their annual vaccinations before bringing a kitten into the home. Thoroughly disinfect anything that has been exposed to the sick kittens with a bleach solution.

Ear mite

Ear Mites
Ear mites are tiny arthropod parasites which live in the ear canal. Common signs of ear mites are ears full of coffee-ground-like crumbling debris, itchy ears, head shaking.In very large infestations, you may actually see the pinpoint white mites moving in the debris in the ear. They are highly contagious, but easily treated.

Failure to thrive
Once in a while, one or more kittens in a litter that were healthy and vigorous at birth will begin to "fade" after a week or two of life. They will stop growing, begin to lose weight, stop nursing and crawling. They may cry continuously and lose the ability to stay upright. The mother cat may push them out of the nest, where they often chill and starve to death. Kittens fade very quickly - they will not last 48 hours without veterinary care, and probably will not recover even with intensive care.
There is no clear cause or reason for this condition - it has been linked to birth defects, environmental stress and infectious disease. Early veterinary treatment is imperative, but even with tube feeding, rehydration and monitoring, many, if not most fading kittens will die.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV) and Feline immunodeficiency (FIV)
FeLV and FIV are retroviruses cats get from other cats (or their moms). Testing for disease can help you make the decision whether to foster a kitten, or whether to add kittens to a litter or keep them in isolation. It is often a good idea to have positive test results confirmed.

In the early stages of FeLV, infected cats appear healthy but over months to years, they develop severe, ultimately fatal disease. In very young kittens, it is advisable to test at least twice as some kittens can be transiently positive, or falsely negative.

On the other hand, testing for FIV is more difficult until after a kitten is four months old. The good news about FIV is that it is much harder to transmit than FeLV, and cats that have been infected with FIV can live long, healthy lives, often not experiencing detrimental disease symptoms until the age of 8 years or more.

A flea on a flea comb

Fleas
Fleas are insects that love to feed on kittens. Each flea only consumes a small amount of blood, and most adult cats are relatively unaffected by large flea infestations, however fleas commonly attack in large numbers and an infestation in a kitten can lead to severe anemia and even death. It is essential that your home be free of fleas before bringing home a small kitten.

If your foster kitten enters your home with fleas, it is important to remove them without causing harm.  Fleas can be transported from the kittens isolated in one area to the main part of the house on clothing, shoes, etc. Therefore, it is also important to treat any other animals in the home with monthly flea prevention or a stray flea, flea egg, pupa or larva may cause an infestation in your house - any unprotected animal in the house can then become a reservoir for the infestation.

Check with your veterinarian before applying any commercial flea products to your kitten, as some flea medications can be harmful to cats. One safe way to remove fleas from very young kittens (less than 6 - 8 weeks) is daily flea combing. Keep a jar of soapy water near you to dip the comb into as it comes off the cat full of fleas. Try not to moisten the kitten too much, and make sure to thoroughly dry your kittens after you are done combing.

If the Kitten is 4 Weeks old and over two pounds in weight, Capstar can be given orally up to once a day to kill adult fleas. This product starts to work within 30 minutes and is effective against adult fleas for 4-6 hours. It does not have any affect on, eggs, larva, or other adult fleas in the kittens environment.

If the kitten is 6 weeks old or older, you can use topical monthly applications available from a veterinarian. Despite your best efforts at flea control, you should plan to treat the kittens for a minimum of 90 days to ensure that all the fleas are out of the household. For more information about flea control, please refer to our blog article "Fighting Fleas Fairly...For Good!"

Upper respiratory tract infection (URI)
Upper respiratory infections are very common in kittens, especially if they have been through a shelter situation and exposed to other cats. These infections are caused by airborne viruses and bacteria which are contagious and spread very quickly.

Signs of URI to watch out for:

• Sneezing and discharge from eyes or nose
• Congested breathing
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Dehydration

Vomiting
If your kitten is vomiting, it is possible that the kitten is eating his meals too quickly. You should watch him when he eats and not allow him to eat too much too quickly. If your kitten vomits 2-3 times in a row, it should see a veterinarian. Vomiting can be another sign of distemper in kittens, so it should not be taken lightly.